tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50332090620559765472024-03-05T18:18:43.476-06:00Cell0907A bit of computingcell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.comBlogger183125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-38559075060146024572022-11-24T09:59:00.002-06:002022-11-24T09:59:14.048-06:00Carbon build up in piston rings cleaningMy 2007 VW GTI MKV has low compression. Leak down test showed 20+ % on all 4 cylinders according to dealership. Also carbon buildup on the plugs and cylinder top. Burns ~1l every 500 miles. Mechanic recommends engine rebuilt or new one. <div><br /></div><div>Nevertheless, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZhV0Qv1lps" target="_blank">this guy</a> recommends trying to dislodge the carbon deposits with <a href="https://www.bgprod.com/services/engine-oil-services/dynamic-engine-restoration-service/" target="_blank">BG Dynamic Engine Restoration</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>Maybe a better option! <a href="https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/gasoline/b-12-chemtool-carburetor-fuel-system-and-injector-cleaner/" target="_blank">Berrymans B-12 Chemtool</a> Used by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG70jHiT-S0">this guy</a> </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/55-ENGINE-Setting_Your_Engine_At_TDC/55-ENGINE-Setting_Your_Engine_At_TDC.htm" target="_blank">Setting engine top dead center</a> but do I really need this?<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Found <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/S1kCCoiKzasnuvcb7" target="_blank">these guys in McKinney TX</a> that will do it</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I paste here the raw stuff I've been typing up. Sorry not very cleaned up but in case it can help someone...</div><div><br /></div><div><div>VW told me that I had to change the motor!</div><div><br /></div><div>Other people says it is piston rings getting stuck because of carbon.</div><div>This guy presents an old method to de-stuck them: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG70jHiT-S0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG70jHiT-S0</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Shopping list:</div><div><br /></div><div>- Latex gloves</div><div>- Compresion tester (Innova Compression Tester 4 Piece)($33)</div><div>- Shringe</div><div>- Tube</div><div><br /></div><div>- Berrymans B-12 Chemtool Carburator Cleaner</div><div>https://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-engine-cleaners-additives/carburetor-and-throttle-body-cleaner/p/berryman-b-12-chemtool-fuel-treatment-15oz/525253_0_0</div><div><br /></div><div>- Fanel</div><div>- Paper towels</div><div>- Stick to measure where the pistons are at. I ended up using two chopsticks taped back to back</div><div>- Scope Camera + cell phone</div><div><br /></div><div>- Spark plug wrench: Duralast 3/8in Drive 5/8in Magnetic Spark Plug Socket with 10in Swivel Bar</div><div><a href="https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/spark-plug-socket/p/duralast-3-8in-drive-5-8in-magnetic-spark-plug-socket-with-10in-swivel-bar/914154_0_0?spps.s=6596&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:8367255572&gclid=CjwKCAjwzNOaBhAcEiwAD7Tb6Lg1ejA0yDtvjPJWTZGNVZsgVqTTXG4WbwO-zMXBjlK9AwBEz1FJwxoCAD4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds">https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/spark-plug-socket/p/duralast-3-8in-drive-5-8in-magnetic-spark-plug-socket-with-10in-swivel-bar/914154_0_0?spps.s=6596&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:8367255572&gclid=CjwKCAjwzNOaBhAcEiwAD7Tb6Lg1ejA0yDtvjPJWTZGNVZsgVqTTXG4WbwO-zMXBjlK9AwBEz1FJwxoCAD4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds</a></div><div><br /></div><div>- Crank screw key ($7): Duralast 1/2in Drive 19mm 12 Point Socket</div><div><a href="https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket/p/duralast-1-2in-drive-19mm-12-point-socket/557514_0_0?spps.s=6596&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:8367255572&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnvOaBhDTARIsAJf8eVO2CFiH84g0BnFlkSMVPQKn86kMJXH-P7L5Gl5F2OFl8vg7grwjuzsaAt0uEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds">https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket/p/duralast-1-2in-drive-19mm-12-point-socket/557514_0_0?spps.s=6596&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:8367255572&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnvOaBhDTARIsAJf8eVO2CFiH84g0BnFlkSMVPQKn86kMJXH-P7L5Gl5F2OFl8vg7grwjuzsaAt0uEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds</a></div><div><br /></div><div>- Spark plug x 4: </div><div>Autolite XP Iridium Spark Plug XP3923</div><div><br /></div><div><b><u>Process</u></b>:</div><div>Compression test:</div><div><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q43h2LdxaGg">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q43h2LdxaGg</a></div><div>Note: theoretically you do this with the engine hot but I just did it cold.</div><div>1. Hear to the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition key on.</div><div>2. Locate and remove the fuel pump fuse. In my case it is the 27 (15A). That'll avoid getting fuel injected when you are running the starter engine during the work (for instance to check compresion)</div><div>3. Do same as 1. but now you shouldn't hear the pump - honestly not sure I did any time. </div><div>4. Remove the ignition coils and the spark plugs. BTW, one can see, specially on #3 that both are quite soaked on oil. </div><div>5. At this moment, I would run the starter to purge a bit of the gas in the line (I didn't and somehow when I check the first compression test the car stalled).</div><div>6. Plug the hose of the tester in the spark socket without tightening it too hard, just by hand.</div><div>7. Turn on the starter pressing on the clutch (neutral) and the gas. Run about 5 times. Same for all cylinders.</div><div>8. I got about 190 for all 4 cylinders. </div><div>Well, actually the first one (cylinder 4 actually) I believe had fuel going in and stalled, as mentioned...</div><div>But the other 3 did the 190 and looks like on the same steps, first to about 120, then 150, then 180, and rounded up in two kicks more to the 190</div><div>Somehow it looks too good specially considering it is cold... </div><div>9. I did try to do a wet test and added a spoon of oil to #3 but then the compression was actually worse and barely made it to 180?!</div><div><br /></div><div>Procedure:</div><div>10. Took some pics with the scope:</div><div>First day 4-3-2-1</div><div>Second day 4-1 then cranked 180 degrees and did 3-2</div><div><br /></div><div>11. The procedure is basically to add Berrymans in the cylinders, through the spark plugs, turn the crank 5 times, and let it sit there for 6 hours. Then repeat another 3 times.</div><div><br /></div><div>Every can has 440ml</div><div><br /></div><div>First time I put about 70ml on every cylinder. About 10:55AM on Tuesday</div><div><br /></div><div>Second time (about 5PM on Tuesday) I put a bit on each cylinder. Closed #1 with the spark plug but it seemed also dry when I looked back after 6 hrs</div><div><br /></div><div>The third time at 1AM added quite a bit (unfortunately I didn't record the amount).</div><div><br /></div><div>Last time 7AM, the first one had still some liquid. I sprayed about 30ml on every cylinder with the syringe and closed everyone with the spark plug.</div><div><br /></div><div>Overall I run through one can and a half, almost 2.</div><div><br /></div><div>To rotate the crank shaft, you use a 20mil double hex socket on the crankshaft pulley</div><div>Rotate CW (see <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFZ-JX5yFWw">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFZ-JX5yFWw</a> minute 10:17)</div><div><br /></div><div>Nevertheless, for me to turn the crank was much harder than in the video. I had to take the wheel out, the wheel guard and use a longer pray bar to have more leverage.</div><div><br /></div><div>BTW, as I spin, there is a moment that it is really tough and then becomes easier. Basically when all cylinders are dead center it is tough, then becomes easier and then at 180 degrees becomes tough again, and then easier again at 270, to finish tough... Could that be a clue?</div><div><br /></div><div>How to turn the crankshaft to set it at TDC (top dead center):</div><div><a href="https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/55-ENGINE-Setting_Your_Engine_At_TDC/55-ENGINE-Setting_Your_Engine_At_TDC.htm">https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/55-ENGINE-Setting_Your_Engine_At_TDC/55-ENGINE-Setting_Your_Engine_At_TDC.htm</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nevertheless, I am not sure I understand the logic of the engine being dead center when adding the liquid. Anyhow you are going to move them up and down 5 times... Maybe to let it sit dead center, but even that, why?</div><div><br /></div><div>I put new plugs, close everything up, and tried to turn on the engine, which miserably failed for 2 times giving me all kind of codes. But finally it started up! Put out a lot of smoke on start and while driving.</div><div><br /></div><div>Then you gotta go 60mph, 3rd gear, 20min. But I think the point is to go at 4500rpm for 20 min. So, you can drive faster but on 4th gear, for instance...</div><div><br /></div><div>My smoke lasted for a while but then went away...</div><div>Then go change the oil. In my case used 5W-40.</div><div><br /></div><div>Engine description (a newer one but hopefully the same):</div><div><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJbKNIJqAEA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJbKNIJqAEA</a> second=2:03</div><div>1-2-3-4 counting from left to right looking at the car from the driver's seat</div><div>Firing order 1-3-4-2 </div><div>Stroke 92.8mm</div><div>Displacement: 1.984l</div><div>One can see the animation of the 1-3-4-2 at minute 0:54 of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY_FgdgYxYI">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY_FgdgYxYI</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Intake-Compresion-explosion-exhaust</div><div><br /></div><div>Other folks talking about this potentially being a reason:</div><div><a href="https://p.widencdn.net/bqglho/US-VPS-0623-EN_ALL_ENG_CLEAN_FIRST_DEFENSE_SELL_SHEET">https://p.widencdn.net/bqglho/US-VPS-0623-EN_ALL_ENG_CLEAN_FIRST_DEFENSE_SELL_SHEET</a></div><div><a href="https://team.valvoline.com/diy/carbon-buildup-can-haunt-your-vehicle-and-wreck-your-wallet-0#:~:text=That's%20why%20carbon%20buildup%20can,some%20cases%2C%20catastrophic%20engine%20failure">https://team.valvoline.com/diy/carbon-buildup-can-haunt-your-vehicle-and-wreck-your-wallet-0#:~:text=That's%20why%20carbon%20buildup%20can,some%20cases%2C%20catastrophic%20engine%20failure</a>.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Different products:</div><div>Seafoam</div><div>Marvel Mystery Oil</div><div>Valvoline</div><div><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyITY8BqPz0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyITY8BqPz0</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voe-ZcKjg4Y" target="_blank">Berrymans ChemDip </a>: This does it the carbon very nicely but CAN'T be used in the engine directly. They use it to clean the pieces out of the engine.</div><div><br /></div><div> </div>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-68459944623565390202022-08-21T20:06:00.003-05:002022-08-21T20:17:26.021-05:00Mi luz<p><a href="https://dweet.io/dweet/for/bartolo_luz1?estado=ON">Enciende la luz</a></p><p><a href="https://dweet.io/dweet/for/bartolo_luz1?estado=OFF" target="_blank">Apaga la luz</a> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>
cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-64133112923630339752022-05-22T14:57:00.001-05:002022-05-22T15:07:50.286-05:00USB C to HDMIBought this adapter (<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KXND4Y1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1" target="_blank">Sniokco</a>) about a year ago and was working fine with my HP Spectre x360 Convertible 13t-aw000. Nevertheless, now it seems to have contact issues (and probably that is the case). When I plug it you can see it detects that it has been plugged because the laptop screen will flicker but sometimes the monitor doesn't turn on. Happens with my two HDMI monitors. <div><br /></div><div>At the same time my brother game a T'nB USB C to HDMI cable which didn't work either so tried to understand the latest on this type of connector/standards.</div><div><br /></div><div>Just for reference, <a href="https://support.hp.com/rs-en/document/c06646911" target="_blank">the laptop spec says</a>:</div><div>2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C™ with Thunderbolt™ 3 (40 Gb/s signaling rate, Power Delivery 3.0, DisplayPort™ 1.4, HP Sleep and Charge); 1 USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-A (HP Sleep and Charge); 1 headphone/microphone combo.</div><div><br /></div><div>No surprise as it was working...</div><div>One strange thing is that the adapter in the Amazon pic says 4k UHD but mine doesn't say. Still, I think it was working as such before.</div><div><br /></div><div>Couple of good links:</div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.mouser.es/applications/usb-type-c-adds-hdmi/" target="_blank">Mouser app note</a></li><li><a href="https://www.xataka.com/basics/thunderbolt-3-que-como-diferenciarlo" target="_blank">Xataka</a></li></ol><div><a href="https://www.fnac.es/Cable-T-nB-HDMI-a-USB-C-Negro-2-m-Cables-y-conectores-ordenador-Cables/a6741788" target="_blank">According to a reviewer </a>my brother's cable is actually using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobile_High-Definition_Link" target="_blank">MHL</a>! Funny because they don't say anything on <a href="https://www.t-nb.com/en/product-catalog/smartphone/smartphone-connectors/usb-type-c-connectors/usb-type-c-to-hdmi-4k-cable" target="_blank">their page</a>. They say it works with 3.A USB C which is not a version of USB-C?!? So if the source doesn't have it, it's not going to work. Which is the case of my laptop... Duh!</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Solutions I thought of:</div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Probably is the adapter. I am saying that because I held it in place with one hand while shaking the rest and it failed. Also it failed when using it with my other laptop. So, a solution is to buy another one, but heck not the same brand. This lasted less than a year.</li><li>Get a wireless adapter, like the <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/es-es/d/microsoft-wireless-display-adapter/8vwdj9bd9xlz?cid=msft_web_collection&activetab=pivot:especificacionest%C3%A9cnicastab#tab132ce62f6-5ef8-495a-a231-0a7a5aba2eb8" target="_blank">Microsoft Wireless Display Adapter</a> based on Miracast.</li></ol></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-42165010278503699422022-02-20T18:10:00.002-06:002022-11-09T04:06:33.735-06:00Renovacion pasaporte español<p><a href="https://www.interior.gob.es/opencms/es/servicios-al-ciudadano/tramites-y-gestiones/pasaporte/procedimiento-de-expedicion/" target="_blank">Tramite general</a> (ministerio del interior >> servicios al ciudadano >> pasaporte >> procedimiento de expedicion)</p><p>Parece que <a href="http://www.exteriores.gob.es/Consulados/NUEVAYORK/es/ServiciosConsulares/Paginas/Preguntas%20Frecuentes/Pasaportes.aspx#:~:text=%C2%BFPuedo%20renovar%20el%20pasaporte%20en,renovar%20su%20pasaporte%20en%20Espa%C3%B1a." target="_blank">se puede hacer en el consulado o en España</a>.</p><p>Aunque <a href="http://www.exteriores.gob.es/Portal/es/ServiciosAlCiudadano/SiEstasEnElExtranjero/Paginas/PasaporteOtraDocumentacion.aspx" target="_blank">aqui</a> parece que dice que se tiene que hacer en el lugar de residencia...</p><p>Ya veremos...</p><p>Update: si me lo hicieron en Barcelona. Puse la direccion de USA (la ultima, aunque no estaba registrada todavia en el consulado)</p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-60739477578790784572022-02-19T12:45:00.001-06:002022-02-19T12:45:10.940-06:00How to<p> <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/34704/how-can-i-add-an-item-to-the-new-context-menu" target="_blank">How to add a new item to the New section in the Context Menu</a> The NullFile approach worked for me</p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-77611608458419797412021-08-08T08:22:00.005-05:002021-08-08T08:22:48.530-05:00Few sites interesting for Dallas Real State<p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.redfin.com/city/30794/TX/Dallas" target="_blank">Redfin</a> (to me the best platform to search for a place). </li><li>Even better, beyond that, <a href="https://www.redfin.com/" target="_blank">Redfin</a> provides <a href="https://www.redfin.com/news/data-center/" target="_blank">access </a>to some interesting data.</li><li><a href="https://dallascityhall.com/departments/sustainabledevelopment/buildinginspection/Pages/online-records.aspx" target="_blank">Dallas construction related resources</a> (building code, permits...). For instance, one can find online the records of all the building related permits granted in a given month.</li><li><a href="https://en-us.topographic-map.com/maps/jpba/Dallas/" target="_blank">Topographic map of Dallas</a></li></ul><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-70394971246235360972021-04-10T10:22:00.003-05:002021-04-10T10:22:29.251-05:00Virtual mail (as of snail mail)<p> So, you plan a year traveling or whatever. Don't have or don't want to have a residence. What do you do with your mail for tax, credit cards, etc purposes. First option is to ask a friend/family. Probably what I'll do. Second use one of these services (about $200/year):</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.sbimailservice.com/mail-scan-pro/">https://www.sbimailservice.com/mail-scan-pro/</a></li><li><a href="https://www.earthclassmail.com/pricing?tab=mailbox">https://www.earthclassmail.com/pricing?tab=mailbox</a></li><li><a href="https://americasmailbox.com/">https://americasmailbox.com/</a></li><li><a href="https://www.virtualpostmail.com/">https://www.virtualpostmail.com/</a></li></ol><div><br /></div><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-45227554328912550442021-04-01T00:46:00.002-05:002021-10-23T11:24:21.503-05:00Elderly emergency monitor anywhere anytime<p style="text-align: left;">My mom saw one of those services that they offer you a watch (and a nice bill) so that it can call someone in case of emergency. Here is a short listing of this and alternative methods. By no means the list is exhaustive but tries to at least point to the different categories.</p><p>Starting from the simplest:</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.colorado.edu/today/2018/12/05/sos-tips-utilizing-your-smartphone-emergency" target="_blank">Enable your smartphone to make an emergency call</a>. For Android, you can add up to 3 contacts, and the phone will send pictures/audio and your location. All by simply pressing the power button 5 times consecutively...</li><li>If you are afraid that mom is not going to have the phone really in reach in case of an emergency, a watch that connects through Bluetooth with that phone may come handy: </li><ol><li>Most of the traditional smartwatches should be able to do that.</li><li>If you look for<a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=emergency+watch+for+elderly&i=electronics&rh=n%3A7939901011%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A10075307011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011&dc&crid=2A5MY396ZMYFN&qid=1617253551&rnid=1248877011&sprefix=Emergency+Watch%2Caps%2C286&ref=sr_nr_p_72_1" target="_blank"> something simpler</a>, without all the other functionality of a smartwatch, just check online for "emergency watch for elderly". </li></ol><li>If your mom has some mental illness which could result on she not carrying her phone around, a smart watch with cell phone capability will be the best. Even if she doesn't call you may be able to find her location. The issue with this option is that you obviously need another SIM and it is kind of redundant if your mom really carries the phone around. Examples: </li><ol><li>As with the previous functionality, you can just get a nice smart watch. See a review of few of them <a href="https://www.smartgeekwrist.com/standalone-smartwatch-sim-card/" target="_blank">here</a>. Examples:</li><ol><li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Ticwatch-Smartwatch-Swim-Ready-Connectivity-Available/dp/B07RKQBHC9/ref=sr_1_6_sspa?crid=2A5MY396ZMYFN&dchild=1&keywords=emergency+watch+for+elderly&qid=1617253558&refinements=p_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A10075307011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011&rnid=1248877011&s=wearable-tech&sprefix=Emergency+Watch%2Caps%2C286&sr=1-6-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUDBON1RTOFJWTkRZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDM5NTU1MTRVT0FUNlhRVUlWVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzk2MTgzMzBHVkJUSjMzTEdWVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=">TicWatch </a>looks very nice.</li><li><a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT206983" target="_blank">Apple Watch</a> It looks like first it calls emergency services and then the contacts.</li><li>Samsung gear (and I guess other Android phones) will do something similar to the Android phone case described in #1.</li></ol><li>You can also try to find narrow functionality (and cheaper) ones by doing a similar search to #2, but make sure you read the reviews. A lot of those watches seem to have issues with the connectivity to the cellular network, durability... Examples:</li><ol><li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Laxcido-Real-time-Geo-Fence-Anti-Lost-Alzheimers/dp/B07ZR3RZV9/ref=pb_allspark_session_sims_desktop_18?pd_rd_w=Jykun&pf_rd_p=bfefd6e2-acb1-463d-94d0-38a6e00f41d3&pf_rd_r=4PVSM30KJX25Q6RX6CG4&pd_rd_r=13716b58-fb14-4809-a0b2-7d6efe0a37e2&pd_rd_wg=p4CG3&pd_rd_i=B07ZR3RZV9&th=1" target="_blank">Laxcido </a>and <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Real-time-Tracking-Geo-Fence-Anti-Lost-Activity/dp/B07JGR6SN1/ref=pb_allspark_session_sims_desktop_7?pd_rd_w=Jykun&pf_rd_p=bfefd6e2-acb1-463d-94d0-38a6e00f41d3&pf_rd_r=4PVSM30KJX25Q6RX6CG4&pd_rd_r=13716b58-fb14-4809-a0b2-7d6efe0a37e2&pd_rd_wg=p4CG3&pd_rd_i=B07JGR6SN1&th=1" target="_blank">KKBear </a>which actually seem to be rebranded products of the same thing.</li></ol></ol><li>Finally get the same watch with a service that will take care of you in case of emergency. The monthly fee may be too much specially if mom can simply call you... There are few services out there but the whole point of this post was to try to save the monthly fee.</li></ol><div>Cheers!</div><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-58692639303720590482021-03-22T21:58:00.002-05:002021-03-22T21:58:36.903-05:00Number of housing units in the US vs population - historical<p> Two references:</p><p><a href="https://www.statista.com/statistics/240267/number-of-housing-units-in-the-united-states/">https://www.statista.com/statistics/240267/number-of-housing-units-in-the-united-states/</a></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWKE7LbqESQw3tUjN-7m0TfKp3oyTOCtuBB_aKc2lqNMbGmGgyI3iRLyNQMPvpSlSSh6KPgIkLKF121pvr7kXXKHbZxwsyXdNkOid6B-6m3N9oSKPTt6hgrlcytM4T1EKLf3eG3V4BKGM/s704/Housing+vs+year.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="704" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWKE7LbqESQw3tUjN-7m0TfKp3oyTOCtuBB_aKc2lqNMbGmGgyI3iRLyNQMPvpSlSSh6KPgIkLKF121pvr7kXXKHbZxwsyXdNkOid6B-6m3N9oSKPTt6hgrlcytM4T1EKLf3eG3V4BKGM/w640-h454/Housing+vs+year.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I believe these are all units, full or empty...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On population: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographic_history_of_the_United_States">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographic_history_of_the_United_States</a></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3n3XSFPXfS9x-HRbYx5a7yuBdjIBjj2KKYm6bifadkugRYTeP2G-mK5fjjhD4pJfA5zpE-zwbYkaduFHNdbDMt9CU2RbDJ9sML3HrccytKeFmzpFyb0u5SUqZDhx-qaDaNptdWJbTH-Y/s277/US+population+vs+year.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="277" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3n3XSFPXfS9x-HRbYx5a7yuBdjIBjj2KKYm6bifadkugRYTeP2G-mK5fjjhD4pJfA5zpE-zwbYkaduFHNdbDMt9CU2RbDJ9sML3HrccytKeFmzpFyb0u5SUqZDhx-qaDaNptdWJbTH-Y/w400-h393/US+population+vs+year.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>In 1980 we had 226M people in 88Munits, so, about 2.56 people/household. From 1980 to 2010, population grew 82M people. One would expect 32Munits, based on the 1980 ratio, but instead, we grew by 43Munits and we all know where that finished.<p></p><p>In the last 10 years, population has grown by 24M people, which would require 12.5Munits (assuming we did not have over supply in 2010). Instead we got 9Munits, so, sure, one could say that we felt short which could explain partially the inventory shortage (although probably not all of it).<br /></p><div><br /></div><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-68991335816093372162021-01-03T16:23:00.005-06:002021-01-05T18:20:21.026-06:00Añadiendo un termostato a la calefaccion por caldera/radiadores<p>Esta es <a href="http://www.imacifp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/4.-Generadores-de-calor..pdf" target="_blank">la mejor guia</a> (ver pg 11 en adelante) aunque tiene mal alguna numeracion</p><p><a href="https://www.tecnologia-informatica.es/instalaciones-de-calefaccion-en-las-viviendas/">Otra guia super completa</a> aunque los numeros de la explicacion al final tambien estan todos cambiados!?</p><p>Y <a href="https://alfonsocardenal.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/caldera.jpg" target="_blank">otra foto</a></p><p>Creo que esta es <a href="https://www.dhsspares.co.uk/userfiles/Boiler_Manuals/ART391.pdf" target="_blank">la guia de mi caldera</a>!</p><p>Top level, creo que el termostato (en el comedor) simplemente hace que el agua se mueva cuando la temperatura esta por debajo del punto fijado. No he leido como, si abriendo alguna de las llaves (o las dos, entrada y salida) y/o haciendo que el circulador (bomba se encienda) para que el agua circule. Pero bueno, creo que eso tambien hace que se encienda el gas.</p><p>Nota: Interesante, me lo estaba preguntando... pero como digo, la caldera tiene una bomba de agua para que circule el agua por los tubos, asi no hay que gastar agua para la operacion y ademas el agua que calientas ya estaba caliente (o no tan fria) como viniendo de la calle... Obvio pero...</p><p>Bueno, ahora si quiero anyadir otro termostato en la habitacion (el mio esta en el comedor) como lo hariamos de la forma mas simple?</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>La forma en la que esta pensado ahora es ajustar el radiador. Si la habitacion esta normalmente mas fria que el comedor, cierra un poco el del comedor y abre el de la habitacion, para compensar. La verdad es que eso funcionaria pero durante el dia no hace falta que la habitacion este caliente...</li><li>La otra forma seria poner otro termostato en la habitacion "en paralelo" con el del comedor. Si el termostato es basicamente un interruptor (que creo que lo es y <a href="https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/20745/how-to-wire-multiple-thermostats/20750">esto</a> parece confirmarlo) que se cierra cuando la temperatura cae por debajo del valor fijado, pues el de la habitacion estaria en paralelo y haria lo mismo. Cualquiera de los dos puede entonces activar la caldera. Vamos a ver si eso existe...</li><li>Una tercera forma es cambiar el termostato por otro que tenga funcion de sensing remota...</li><li>La ultima/mejor es anyadir un circuito de agua separado controlado por valvulas independientes, cada una controlada por el termostato correspondiente. Evidentemente este es el mas costoso de todos...</li></ol>Seguramente pruebe #2 <p></p><p>PD.: Por cierto, <a href="https://askae.es/blog/caldera-sube-presion-3-bar/">este link</a> es bueno explicando fallos de caldera.</p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-22615830718559574222021-01-02T16:46:00.001-06:002021-01-02T16:46:13.239-06:00Cracking my old Excel file encryption <p> I got this very old file and can't remember what was my password! DARN!</p><p>So, here I am trying with what is out there (which seems pretty powerful). At the time of starting writing this I am (hopefully) half way. Have not been able to crack it yet. But will write here some of the key links/explanations I have found so far:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Very simple intro from <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2016/dec/15/passwords-hacking-hashing-salting-sha-2" target="_blank">The Guardian</a> on encryption jargon.</li><li>FYI, I am working in Kali Linux.</li><li>Used: <b>Phython office2john.py file_you_want_to_crack > hash.txt</b> This will extract the hash of the file.</li><li>Now you could use something that uses a dictionary to try to crack it, like <b>john --wordlist=/usr/share/wordlists/nmap.lst hash.txt</b></li><li>But that may not be powerful enough (it wasn't for me) because I wasn't dumb enough to just use words for my password... So, we are now trying brute force attack (try every combination, basically) with hashcat (which is smarter than that). I am having problems using it though but here some interesting stuff as I learn along the way...</li><li><a href="https://hashcat.net/forum/thread-7643.html" target="_blank">Really nice example/explanation</a> step by step of the whole encryption process and cracking approach. The Atom post he is referring to (that guy is a beast) is <a href="https://hashcat.net/forum/thread-3665.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</li><li>Ok, so after searching, I figure that 1/ I had to remove also the back file name in the hash and all the "::::" (I still had that) and 2/ <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Kalilinux/comments/55dc44/virtualbox_kali_and_hashcat/" target="_blank">can't run hashcat in VM Kali</a> (basically needs intensive access to the HW which the VM is simply emulating).</li><li>So, now I got the Hashcat version for Windows 10, but still not running. Issues seem related to the Intel OpenCL driver. You can run <b>Hashcat -I</b> and will give you the devices where it can run the cracking:</li></ul><div><div>hashcat (v6.1.1) starting...</div><div><br /></div><div>* Device #1: Unstable OpenCL driver detected!</div><div><br /></div><div>OpenCL Info:</div><div>============</div><div><br /></div><div>OpenCL Platform ID #1</div><div> Vendor..: Intel(R) Corporation</div><div> Name....: Intel(R) OpenCL HD Graphics</div><div> Version.: OpenCL 2.1</div><div><br /></div><div> Backend Device ID #1</div><div> Type...........: GPU</div><div> Vendor.ID......: 8</div><div> Vendor.........: Intel(R) Corporation</div><div> Name...........: Intel(R) Iris(R) Plus Graphics</div><div> Version........: OpenCL 2.1 NEO</div><div> Processor(s)...: 64</div><div> Clock..........: 1100</div><div> Memory.Total...: 6450 MB (limited to 3225 MB allocatable in one block)</div><div> Memory.Free....: 6386 MB</div><div> OpenCL.Version.: OpenCL C 2.0</div><div> Driver.Version.: 27.20.100.8280</div><div><br /></div><div>OpenCL Platform ID #2</div><div> Vendor..: Intel(R) Corporation</div><div> Name....: Intel(R) OpenCL</div><div> Version.: OpenCL 2.1 WINDOWS</div><div><br /></div><div> Backend Device ID #2</div><div> Type...........: CPU</div><div> Vendor.ID......: 8</div><div> Vendor.........: Intel(R) Corporation</div><div> Name...........: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1065G7 CPU @ 1.30GHz</div><div> Version........: OpenCL 2.1 (Build 0)</div><div> Processor(s)...: 8</div><div> Clock..........: 1300</div><div> Memory.Total...: 16126 MB (limited to 4031 MB allocatable in one block)</div><div> Memory.Free....: 16062 MB</div><div> OpenCL.Version.: OpenCL C 2.0</div><div> Driver.Version.: 2020.11.11.0.13_160000</div></div><div><br /></div><div>It identifies both, the GPU (device 1) and the CPU (device 2). It doesn't seem to say "unstable driver" for the device #2. So I give it a shot to use that: <b>hashcat -a0 -m9700 -D1 hashtest.txt</b></div><div>Using D1 tells him to use only CPU, not GPU and it started working!</div><div>hashcat (v6.1.1) starting...</div><div><br /></div><div><div>./OpenCL/m09700_a0-optimized.cl: Pure kernel not found, falling back to optimized kernel</div><div>* Device #1: Unstable OpenCL driver detected!</div><div><br /></div><div>This OpenCL driver has been marked as likely to fail kernel compilation or to produce false negatives.</div><div>You can use --force to override this, but do not report related errors.</div><div><br /></div><div>OpenCL API (OpenCL 2.1 ) - Platform #1 [Intel(R) Corporation]</div><div>=============================================================</div><div>* Device #1: Intel(R) Iris(R) Plus Graphics, <b><span style="color: red;">skipped</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>OpenCL API (OpenCL 2.1 WINDOWS) - Platform #2 [Intel(R) Corporation]</div><div>====================================================================</div><div>* Device #2: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1065G7 CPU @ 1.30GHz, 16062/16126 MB (4031 MB allocatable), 8MCU</div><div><br /></div><div>./OpenCL/m09700_a0-optimized.cl: Pure kernel not found, falling back to optimized kernel</div><div>Minimum password length supported by kernel: 0</div><div>Maximum password length supported by kernel: 15</div><div><br /></div><div>Hashes: 1 digests; 1 unique digests, 1 unique salts</div><div>Bitmaps: 16 bits, 65536 entries, 0x0000ffff mask, 262144 bytes, 5/13 rotates</div><div>Rules: 1</div><div><br /></div><div>Applicable optimizers applied:</div><div>* Optimized-Kernel</div><div>* Zero-Byte</div><div>* Precompute-Init</div><div>* Not-Iterated</div><div>* Single-Hash</div><div>* Single-Salt</div><div><br /></div><div>Watchdog: Hardware monitoring interface not found on your system.</div><div>Watchdog: Temperature abort trigger disabled.</div><div><br /></div><div>Host memory required for this attack: 204 MB</div><div><br /></div><div>Starting attack in stdin mode...</div><div><br /></div><div>Session..........: hashcat</div><div>Status...........: Running</div><div>Hash.Name........: MS Office <= 2003 $0/$1, MD5 + RC4</div><div>Hash.Target......: $oldoffice$0*47dddd306ed3c1e272c9e3cd6013906e*5cf05...d7066a</div><div>Time.Started.....: Sat Jan 02 10:10:26 2021 (10 secs)</div><div>Time.Estimated...: Sat Jan 02 10:10:36 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Guess.Base.......: Pipe</div><div>Speed.#2.........: 0 H/s (0.00ms) @ Accel:64 Loops:1 Thr:64 Vec:16</div><div>Recovered........: 0/1 (0.00%) Digests</div><div>Progress.........: 0</div><div>Rejected.........: 0</div><div>Restore.Point....: 0</div><div>Restore.Sub.#2...: Salt:0 Amplifier:0-0 Iteration:0-1</div><div>Candidates.#2....: [Copying]</div></div><div><br /></div><div>It keeps going but gives this message:</div><div><div><i>ATTENTION! Read timeout in stdin mode. The password candidates input is too slow:</i></div><div><i>* Are you sure that you are using the correct attack mode (--attack-mode or -a)?</i></div><div><i>* Are you sure that you want to use input from standard input (stdin)?</i></div><div><i>* If so, are you sure that the input from stdin (the pipe) is working correctly and is fast enough?</i></div></div><div><br /></div><div>I think the issue is that we are trying a dictionary attack (a0) but not sure what list was using. So, I changed to <a href="https://hashcat.net/wiki/doku.php?id=mask_attack" target="_blank">mask_attack</a> (a3) but I had changed to m9710 which was limiting the length to exactly 5 characters (not sure why) and obviously my experimental 1234 password was not getting cracked. Finally I tried: <b>hashcat -a3 -m9700 -D1 -o outfile.txt hashtest.txt ?d?d?d?d</b></div><div>and that cracked it!!</div><div><br /></div><div>Other notes... I am using now (to crack the real file) the command:</div><div><b>hashcat -a3 -m9800 -D1 -o outfile.txt hashprostatitis.txt --increment ?l?l?l?l?l?l?l?l</b></div><div><div>and we get:</div><div>[...]</div><div><div>Host memory required for this attack: 204 MB</div><div><br /></div><div>The wordlist or mask that you are using is too small.</div><div>This means that hashcat cannot use the full parallel power of your device(s).</div><div>Unless you supply more work, your cracking speed will drop.</div><div>For tips on supplying more work, see: https://hashcat.net/faq/morework</div><div><br /></div><div>Approaching final keyspace - workload adjusted.</div><div><br /></div><div>Session..........: hashcat</div><div>Status...........: Exhausted</div><div>Hash.Name........: MS Office <= 2003 $3/$4, SHA1 + RC4</div><div>Hash.Target......: $oldoffice$4*778b3815ae4fe0c33b38500455d85742*0d3bf...b08f61</div><div>Time.Started.....: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Time.Estimated...: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Guess.Mask.......: ?l [1]</div><div>Guess.Queue......: 1/8 (12.50%)</div><div>Speed.#2.........: 108.0 kH/s (0.04ms) @ Accel:4 Loops:26 Thr:64 Vec:16</div><div>Recovered........: 0/1 (0.00%) Digests</div><div>Progress.........: 26/26 (100.00%)</div><div>Rejected.........: 0/26 (0.00%)</div><div>Restore.Point....: 1/1 (100.00%)</div><div>Restore.Sub.#2...: Salt:0 Amplifier:0-26 Iteration:0-26</div><div>Candidates.#2....: s -> x</div><div><br /></div><div>The wordlist or mask that you are using is too small.</div><div>This means that hashcat cannot use the full parallel power of your device(s).</div><div>Unless you supply more work, your cracking speed will drop.</div><div>For tips on supplying more work, see: https://hashcat.net/faq/morework</div><div><br /></div><div>Approaching final keyspace - workload adjusted.</div><div><br /></div><div>Session..........: hashcat</div><div>Status...........: Exhausted</div><div>Hash.Name........: MS Office <= 2003 $3/$4, SHA1 + RC4</div><div>Hash.Target......: $oldoffice$4*778b3815ae4fe0c33b38500455d85742*0d3bf...b08f61</div><div>Time.Started.....: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Time.Estimated...: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Guess.Mask.......: ?l?l [2]</div><div>Guess.Queue......: 2/8 (25.00%)</div><div>Speed.#2.........: 719.5 kH/s (0.75ms) @ Accel:4 Loops:26 Thr:64 Vec:16</div><div>Recovered........: 0/1 (0.00%) Digests</div><div>Progress.........: 676/676 (100.00%)</div><div>Rejected.........: 0/676 (0.00%)</div><div>Restore.Point....: 26/26 (100.00%)</div><div>Restore.Sub.#2...: Salt:0 Amplifier:0-26 Iteration:0-26</div><div>Candidates.#2....: sa -> xz</div><div><br /></div><div>The wordlist or mask that you are using is too small.</div><div>This means that hashcat cannot use the full parallel power of your device(s).</div><div>Unless you supply more work, your cracking speed will drop.</div><div>For tips on supplying more work, see: https://hashcat.net/faq/morework</div><div><br /></div><div>Approaching final keyspace - workload adjusted.</div><div><br /></div><div>Session..........: hashcat</div><div>Status...........: Exhausted</div><div>Hash.Name........: MS Office <= 2003 $3/$4, SHA1 + RC4</div><div>Hash.Target......: $oldoffice$4*778b3815ae4fe0c33b38500455d85742*0d3bf...b08f61</div><div>Time.Started.....: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Time.Estimated...: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Guess.Mask.......: ?l?l?l [3]</div><div>Guess.Queue......: 3/8 (37.50%)</div><div>Speed.#2.........: 3935.9 kH/s (4.20ms) @ Accel:4 Loops:26 Thr:64 Vec:16</div><div>Recovered........: 0/1 (0.00%) Digests</div><div>Progress.........: 17576/17576 (100.00%)</div><div>Rejected.........: 0/17576 (0.00%)</div><div>Restore.Point....: 676/676 (100.00%)</div><div>Restore.Sub.#2...: Salt:0 Amplifier:0-26 Iteration:0-26</div><div>Candidates.#2....: sna -> xqz</div><div><br /></div><div>Approaching final keyspace - workload adjusted.</div><div><br /></div><div>Session..........: hashcat</div><div>Status...........: Exhausted</div><div>Hash.Name........: MS Office <= 2003 $3/$4, SHA1 + RC4</div><div>Hash.Target......: $oldoffice$4*778b3815ae4fe0c33b38500455d85742*0d3bf...b08f61</div><div>Time.Started.....: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Time.Estimated...: Sat Jan 02 11:06:06 2021 (0 secs)</div><div>Guess.Mask.......: ?l?l?l?l [4]</div><div>Guess.Queue......: 4/8 (50.00%)</div><div>Speed.#2.........: 5325.5 kH/s (5.44ms) @ Accel:16 Loops:6 Thr:64 Vec:16</div><div>Recovered........: 0/1 (0.00%) Digests</div><div>Progress.........: 456976/456976 (100.00%)</div><div>Rejected.........: 0/456976 (0.00%)</div><div>Restore.Point....: 17576/17576 (100.00%)</div><div>Restore.Sub.#2...: Salt:0 Amplifier:24-26 Iteration:0-6</div><div>Candidates.#2....: uegy -> xqzz</div></div><div><br /></div><div>I.e., one can see how the --increment flag is working and it is testing initially just one character, then combinations of 2, then 3.. Each taking longer time, obviously. It tells you how many it tried. For instance, for 4 characters it does 456976 combinations. Pressing "S" gives us the current status. Of course, this may take hours... (The 6 char long took 1 min, the 7 char long took 37 min) so I canceled.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>In that sense, notice that it also shows the speed of how many trials per second: 5325.5 kH/s All 8 cores were at 100% at this time :)</div><div><br /></div><div>Then I tried <b>hashcat -a3 -m9800 -D1 -o outfile.txt hashprostatitis.txt -1 abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz0123456789 ?1?1?1?1?1?1 b</b>ut no luck. I think I am going to have to give up on this. Probably too hard to crack...</div><div><br /></div><div>Other links:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>A<a href="https://tinyapps.org/docs/hashcat.html" target="_blank"> link that I found</a> (unfortunately late) relatively close to this.</li><li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0E8PlTIx-c" target="_blank">Youtube</a></li><li><a href="https://hashcat.net/wiki/doku.php?id=hashcat">Hashcat wiki</a></li><li><a href="https://eprint.iacr.org/2005/007.pdf" target="_blank">On the old Office vulnerability</a> when saving multiple versions of a document with the same password. I was thinking to do this as I got two documents using the same password, but I don't think it works for that.</li></ul></div><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-2075450982878785472020-12-20T03:47:00.002-06:002020-12-20T03:47:47.153-06:00Creating your Home Design with SweetHome3D<p> Just a brief tutorial/tips, under construction, on how to get the best of your SH3D:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Break your space on different problems and create separate files to work on them. That way you can have different variations on the same file of the same space about that one problem and compare to each other. Eventually, when done, you can put it all together with the winning combination for every problem.</li><li><a href="https://cell0907.blogspot.com/2017/07/3d-models-formats-libraries-websites.html" target="_blank">How to find more objects</a></li><ul><li><a href="http://www.sweethome3d.com/importModels.jsp">SH3D link</a><br /></li></ul><li><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/6ie5n9/best_software_for_vr_home_design/">How to go from your design in SHD3 to VR view</a>, say on HTC Vive:</li><ul><li></li><li>SH3D to do the plan</li><li>Then from there you can export the 3d view to .obj format</li><li>Use autodesk fbx to convert the obj to fbx</li><li>Use unity to import the fbx in htc vive scene. Use the unity toolkit as a start to have a simple teleport system.</li></ul></ul><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-50501075900911800122020-12-20T03:45:00.002-06:002020-12-20T04:18:34.590-06:003D models: formats, libraries, websites, translatorsSo, I am using <a href="http://www.sweethome3d.com/">SH3D</a> (Sweet Home 3D). Really nice open source software that allows you to import objects. I am new to all these file formats, so, trying to figure what is the best source of objects and how to bring them in... Work in progress...<div><br /></div><div>You can start by the <a href="http://www.sweethome3d.com/importModels.jsp">SH3D library page</a>. Remember to unzip the libraries before importing them, or else it will give you a message like everything was fine but actually nothing gets imported.<br />
<br />
Working backwards, SH3D accepts (sorted for compatibility with Blender):<br />
<ul>
<li>OBJ - Wavefront << This can be opened by blender</li>
<li>3DS - 3D Studio << This can be opened by blender</li>
<li>DAE - DAE Collada << This can be opened by blender</li>
<li>LWS - LightWave Scene</li>
<li>KMZ: this is the Google Earth file format. Not sure what it is doing here...</li>
<li>ZIP</li>
</ul>
<div>
Nevertheless, the typical libraries websites:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://archive3d.net/">Archive3D</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dsky.org/">3DSky</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/index.html">3D Warehouse</a>: from Sketchup. Free models.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.turbosquid.com/">TurboSquid</a>: paid and free.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.cgtrader.com/">CGTrader</a>: paid and free.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.3dcontentcentral.com/">https://www.3dcontentcentral.com</a></li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>Have files like (sorted by how easy is to get them in SH3D, mentioning what opens it that can translate it into one of the SH3D formats):</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>RFA: from Revit</li>
<li>DXF: use <a href="http://www.3dtransform.com/">3D Transform</a> to transform STL, which <b>Blender</b> accepts.</li>
<li>FBX, from Filmbox, is proprietary (folks basically hack their way in, but with a newer version, they lose that...) although the newer versions seem that it can be opened in <b>Blender</b>.</li>
<li>DWG</li>
<li>STL </li>
<li>SLDPRT: SolidWorks Part file. Proprietary. You can see it with <a href="https://a360.autodesk.com/viewer/">Autodesk Viewer</a> but don't know how to save it/translate it to something (without paying...).</li>
<li>SLDASM: SolidWorks too. It typically contains several of the above organized together...</li>
<li>MAX: From AutoDesk. Looks like there is no way.</li>
</ul>
<div>
In some cases we lose the texture, which is not cool...</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Some of the files are more complex than what we want to use in SH3D, so, we need a way not only to open it but to edit it.</div>
<br />
Websites that allow you to change formats for free:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.greentoken.de/onlineconv/">http://www.greentoken.de/onlineconv/</a></li>
<ul>
<li>Input formats: 3d, 3ds, fbx, ac, ac3d, acc, ase, ask, b3d, blend, bvh, cob, csm, dae, dxf, enff, hmp, ifc, irr, irrmesh, lwo, lws, lxo, md2, md3, md5anim, md5camera, md5mesh, mdc, mdl, mesh.xml, mot, ms3d, ndo, nff, obj, off, pk3, ply, prj, q3o, q3s, raw, scn, smd, stl, ter, uc, vta, x, xml, xgl</li>
<li>Export formats are: stl, stlb, collada, obj, 3ds, ply, json, x </li>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://www.3dtransform.com/">3D Transform</a>: takes .igs .iges .stp .step .brep .3ds .ase .dxf .stla .stlb .stl .wrl .iv .obj .swv .gmod .iv and outputs .STL</li>
</ul>
Editors:<br />
<ul>
<li>Blender:</li>
<li><a href="http://www.sketchup.com/">Sketchup</a>: looks like they may have some freebies... Unfortunately does not run in Linux so won't comment further.</li>
</ul>
Eventually, we will also need textures. Textures are relatively easier as any jpg will work, except for the tileability (how to tile them side by side seamlessly)<br />
<br />
<br /></div>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-22802985848203251052020-12-02T21:57:00.005-06:002020-12-03T10:27:58.555-06:00Covid rapid (24 hrs turnaround) test for travelers in Dallas <p> Just a note here to write down what I did:</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>I found 3 options (there may be more but just stopped there :)):</li><ol><li><a href="https://devlabbio.com/covid-19-testing-for-travelers/">DevLabBio</a>: $150 next day results. They replied very fast to my email. You book a time online. Fill the form, including the payment, ahead of arriving to the place.</li><li><a href="https://www.carenow.com/patient-services/medical-tests/pre-flight-covid-19-rapid-testing.dot">CareNow</a>. $150 on their normal clinics. $250 at the airport.</li><li><a href="https://realtimelab.com/local-testing/">RealTimeLab</a>: $250 for 24hrs turnaround time</li></ol><li>For a list of testing sites in Texas click <a href="https://www.covidtest.tdem.texas.gov/">here </a> Wherever you decide to go, make sure it is in this list so that it is not a fake place (there are reports of some popping up).</li><li><a href="https://thepointsguy.com/guide/where-to-get-covid-test-travel/">The points guy article</a>.</li></ol><div>I did #1 (at 3PM on Thursday for a flight departure at 8PM on Saturday, and arrival at 10AM Sunday). My backup was #2 at the airport if it failed.</div><div><br /></div><div>===</div><div><br /></div><div>Nothing to do with Covid testing but other stuff required by immigration:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://apply.joinsherpa.com/travel-restrictions/GBR?affiliateId=americanairlines&anchorLocation=DirectURL&title=travelrestrictions&originCountry=USA">Travel to UK from US restrictions</a></li><li><a href="https://www.gov.uk/provide-journey-contact-details-before-travel-uk">UK entrance form</a></li><li><a href="http://www.exteriores.gob.es/Consulados/LONDRES/es/COVID19-UK/Documents/BOE-A-2020-14049.pdf">Travel to Spain regulation</a></li><li><a href="https://www.spth.gob.es/">Spain entrance form</a></li></ul></div><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-36756118422102592942020-12-01T11:51:00.001-06:002020-12-01T11:51:11.692-06:00Getting Internet while traveling in Spain<p>The link that brought me to the solution is <a href="https://prepaid-data-sim-card.fandom.com/wiki/Spain">this nice one</a></p><p>The solution that I did:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.simyo.es/">https://www.simyo.es/</a> You should see few sliders where you can pick the quantities of data and voice/calls. I selected 20GB/month for 10Euro. No voice/calls.<br /></li><li><a href="https://www.simyo.es/preguntas-frecuentes/internet.html">Tethering is allowed</a></li><li>If you don't want to do tethering or your phone doesn't allow it, you can <a href="https://www.simyo.es/simyo/telefonia-movil/comprar/alcatel-link-zone-mw40v">get their modem</a> for 48Euro.</li></ul><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-52757522548109902712020-11-08T11:31:00.003-06:002020-11-08T11:32:20.399-06:00Great people<div>Intent of this post is to list a few of maybe not so well known great human beings (work in progress). Respect:</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://theconversation.com/rosalind-franklin-still-doesnt-get-the-recognition-she-deserves-for-her-dna-discovery-95536#:~:text=Rosalind%20Franklin%20died%20on%20April,and%2C%20most%20notably%2C%20DNA.">Rosalind Franklin</a>: should have been one of the novel prize winners for the discovery of DNA. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jonas_Salk">Jonas Salk</a>, discover of many vaccines, but very few now him because he credited his team.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.pddnet.com/news-ap-segway-owner-dies-in-segway-accient-092810/">James Heselden</a> - Segway and Hesco Owner</div><div>"There are people out there who are making money, and when times are good I honestly believe people have a moral obligation to use their wealth to help others," Heselden told the Yorkshire Post earlier this year. "Life turned out pretty well for me, but I still work in the same area where I grew up, and everyday I see people who for whatever reason are down on their luck."</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/14/world/africa/an-ebola-orphans-plea-in-africa-do-you-want-me.html">Usman Koroma</a>, wanted to adopt a child who had just lost her mom to Ebola. </div><div><br /></div><div>Chinese doctor, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Li_Wenliang">Li Wenliang</a>, who was reprimanded by police after warning colleagues about a new respiratory disease emerging in Wuhan, and finally died after falling ill. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aaron_Feuerstein">Aaron Feuerstein</a>, from Malden Mills. Keep their employees after the factory burnt down and many competitors were moving overseas. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malden_Mills</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.filmsforaction.org/articles/the-white-man-in-that-photo/?fbclid=IwAR2nw5ApQqjaqGh9UYngsPb-nqNVMYBzRwQaeQmvHTfX-X7kDEIsBT6aOoE#.Xtz_hyZAayk.facebook">Peter Norman</a>, Awesome human and Australian athlete.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://allthatsinteresting.com/colorized-wwii-eastern-front-photos?fbclid=IwAR1lwLcSRsaVi6fOZp4PrDjYYk-zoV6wVwlSW9vTAuAHR19gnVl74CObYZo#2">Yevdokia Dashina</a>: hippo care taker</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.lavanguardia.com/historiayvida/historia-contemporanea/20201108/2609165/juez-persiguio-crimenes-retaguardia-republicana-acabo-exilio.html">Josep Maria Bertran de Quintana</a>. Judge on the Republican side (one of the Spanish sides during the Civil War) that prosecuted indiscriminated killings of civilians on the Republican controlled regions, against the establishment and social winds (hurricanes) in those regions.</div><div><br /></div>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-70336427697978076112020-08-29T17:34:00.005-05:002020-09-01T11:32:05.273-05:00EV battery size and cost<p>Being checking a bit on EVs now that Tesla is hot (I think >$2k/share is a joke, you read it here first :)). Still, the EV (which BTW were not invented by Tesla) are cool. Even Teslas are cool (just the stock price is a joke). Note: I am checking also FCEV (look super cool too). </p><p>Anyhow, quick calculation from the offering on <a href="https://www.evwest.com/">this site</a> (they explain it really well so you just can read it there). A Tesla 5.3kWh (444 batteries as 74p6s) pack costs <b>$1580 (<span style="color: red;">$300/kWh</span>)</b> and is 68 x 28 x 7.5 cm. 10 of these packs would give you about 53kWh which is close to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_Model_3">Model 3</a> smallest battery (50kWh) and can take you (if you believe the <a href="https://youtu.be/ZH7V2tU3iFc?t=1535" target="_blank">BS-EPA</a> rating from Tesla) to 354Km. Would love to see you try that, Tesla fan ;) but still pretty good even if falls short of that (see bottom of this post). Assuming same "marketing" trickery, we can guess we can get about 275 km with that battery pack.</p><p>So, to summarize it, <b><u><span style="color: red;">it takes about $57 and about 0.5 liter of volume per km of autonomy</span></u></b>. </p><p>Notice though that this is for the full Tesla module. In the same website we can check the price of the individual cells (Panasonic 18650): 200 cells (3Ah/cell, or ~2.3kWh) for $600. This is actually not much cheaper than just buying the Tesla module, about <b>$1330</b> for the 444 cells on that module and you got everything else with it (cooling, assembly...), done on the Gigafactory.</p><p>So, what to do with this stupid battery? ;)</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Awesome, I repeat, <a href="https://youtu.be/6BMskpsLiYA">really awesome video</a> of how to make an electric catamaran. Warning: if you watch it, you may not be able to avoid building one. You've been warned...</li><li>Or how about an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXQrK5CCDfY">eBike</a>? :)</li><li>Or an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vhgYbGJd0s">eFoil</a>?</li><li>Or an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jlWnwBwAQk">eWaterBike</a>?</li></ul><div>Seriously!</div><p></p><p>PS.: On the range (what I call BS-EPA), <a href="https://youtu.be/ZH7V2tU3iFc?t=1535" target="_blank">this video</a> measures few cars in a real life scenario. The link should bring you straight into the results part. As summary:</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Nissan Leaf: 62kWh, 208 miles in the test, 87% of the EPA promised range (what I call the BS-EPA range).</li><li>Jaguar I-Pace: 90kWh, 223, 76%</li><li>Mercedes EQ: 80kWh, 194, 75% </li><li>Audi e-tron: 95kWh, 206, 81%</li><li>Kia e-Niro: 64kWh, 255, 90%</li><li>Tesla model 3 Long range: 75kWh, 270, 78% </li></ol><p></p><p>Based on #6, the real range would be 78% of 354km = 276km</p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-3307628964037843542020-08-26T12:31:00.002-05:002020-08-26T12:31:32.609-05:00Seborrheic Keratoses<p> <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1868345/">Remove them with your fingernails</a></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-8990373790262465462020-08-10T00:00:00.011-05:002020-08-23T23:27:26.063-05:00Where to invest your money<p>So we are in August 2020. I am not going to spend time telling you what has happened this year in the world :) But here I just curated the view of different smart people that may give you different perspectives on what they think about putting your money in different places. Some will be right, some will be wrong, but they are all certainly people worth listening to. In no particular order:</p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Where money comes from (I guess one should start there, if in the end, all what you are trying to do is to conserve or grow that): </li><ul><li><a href="https://www.bankofengland.co.uk/-/media/boe/files/quarterly-bulletin/2014/money-creation-in-the-modern-economy">Money creation in the modern economy.</a></li><li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EobPnLZiOo8">Inflation and US debt</a></li></ul><li><a href="http://www.simplestockinvesting.com/SP500-historical-real-total-returns.htm">Stock market returns accounting for inflation</a>. The short story:</li><ul><li><a href="https://www.dollartimes.com/inflation/inflation.php?amount=1&year=1950#:~:text=Adjusted%20for%20inflation%2C%20%241.00%20in,over%20this%20period%20was%203.47%25.">$1 in 1950 bought you the same as $9.1 in 2010</a>.**</li><li>$1 invested in S&P in 1950 with dividend reinvestment would be worth ~50 in 2010 if you had reinvested the dividends, once you account for inflation. If you didn't reinvest the dividends it would be only worth about $7. Certainly the gains are much lower than many financial advisors will tell you but still great and a good hedge against inflation. An example would be to look at Jimmy Carter's presidency (1/1977 to 1/1981) with this <a href="https://dqydj.com/sp-500-return-calculator/">calculator</a>. The total gain with div reinvested adjusted for inflation in that period was a mere 5%. BUT the inflation was actually 50%! If you left the money under the mattress, you would have lost 50% of its value at the end of his presidency.</li></ul><li>** Is inflation what you really care about? For the most part, yes, but the key thing to keep in mind is that you get money and hope to use it on stuff. You would hope that at least when you want to buy something, it will cost the same or less than today. There are products that you can buy today but some you got to wait (can't buy food for 2040). In those, inflation is critical. Nevertheless, what you plan to buy may or may not match what the government considers in the basket of products for inflation. So, watch for those. For instance, the main one is one of your biggest expenses, housing. As it is so big, people usually doesn't miss it/gets fooled by government data. But it is interesting to note why they do not include that (different topic).</li><li>Is gold a good hedge against inflation? With the last stimulus of 3 trillion dollars, a lot of people says that there will be inflation and that Gold helps offset that. Some articles on the topic:</li><ul><li><a href="https://finance.yahoo.com/news/why-yield-curve-control-fed-071311938.html">For that theory</a></li><li><a href="https://inflationdata.com/articles/2018/04/27/inflation-affect-price-gold/">Against that theory</a></li></ul><li>Ray Dalio: highly respected in the investment world, founder of Bridgewater. I am no one to judge his knowledge and way of thinking (which I think it is really good) but I do find his texts not so easy to understand (probably my fault more than his) and a bit repetitive (could include different angles to the same concept):</li><ul><li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHe0bXAIuk0">How the economic machine works?</a> <br /></li><li><a href="https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/changing-world-order-ray-dalio-1f/">The Changing World Order</a> (a 2020 series of articles on how he sees the US position in the world evolving, the effects on macro-economy, the potential role of other countries like China...). I am just starting to read it so can't really judge yet... </li></ul><li><a href="https://www.hussmanfunds.com/comment/mc200712/">John Hussman</a>. To many what is called a permabear (someone who always thinks the market is going to go down). He got this reputation over the last 10 years as he claimed the market was overbought but kept going up. He admits that although he may be right on the first (market fundamentals), he didn't appreciate the fact that people (psychology) may still keep pumping the market up (market internals). Regardless, I find his analysis sound and you can learn quite a bit reading his monthly notes.</li><li>Liquidity concept</li><li>Want to invest on start-ups?</li><ul><li><a href="https://wefunder.com/">Wefunder</a></li></ul></ul><div>This is work in progress but anyhow hope it helps...</div><div><br /></div><div>Resources:</div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://etfdb.com/">ETF</a></li><li><br /></li></ol></div><p></p><p></p>cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-52050313522801396092020-07-20T10:03:00.000-05:002020-07-20T10:03:43.213-05:00Moving from one Android phone to anotherThese are mostly notes for myself so don't take it as a tutorial. I am sure there are much better out there...<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>In the old phone I had google back up running, so, it was basically up to date with all the info.</li>
<li>On the new phone, I just had wifi enabled (the SIM was still in the old one). Logged in with my Google acct and a lot of the stuff got transferred in.</li>
<li>I did have to log in Facebook to enable the automatic login in other apps.</li>
<li>Skype and Messenger (Facebook) were straightforward. Just log in those apps and then you can use it in both phones.</li>
<li>WeChat was relatively easy too. Didn't want to lose my contacts/chat history. </li>
<ol>
<li>Following <a href="https://mobiletrans.wondershare.com/wechat/back-and-restore-wechat-chat-history.html#:~:text=Step%201%3A%20First%20of%20all,Backup%20%26%20Migrate%20Chats%E2%80%9D%20option.">those instructions</a> in the old phone, go to Me>>Settings>>Chat>>Backup and migrate chats. It'll show a QR.</li>
<li>Then log in normally in the new phone WeChat. As I didn't remember my password, used SMS to reset it (they get sent to the old phone, but it is ok).</li>
<li>Once in the new phone app, click the top right corner plus sign and an option to scan QR shows up. Do it and there you go! By the way, you'll get logged out of your old phone WeChat.</li>
</ol>
<li>Line:</li>
<ol>
<li>In the old phone, open the app, go to the "More" (3 dots), settings icon (top right) >> Chats >> Backup and restore chat history >> Backup to Google Drive</li>
<li>Similar to WeChat, log into your new phone Line. If you forgot password, you can reset with SMS and email assigned to your account. Then it'll warn you that your old phone app is going to disappear and that you should backup. You click ok and as it pulls the backup from Google it disables the older phone Line.</li>
</ol>
<li>Whatsapp:</li>
<ol>
<li>In the old phone, go to whatsapp >> 3 dots >> Settings >> Chats >> Chat backup and do a backup.</li>
<li>Then log in the new phone Whatsapp simply with your phone number. Even if the SIM still in the old phone, you get the verification SMS in the old phone and enable the new phone. If you had two factor authentication, it'll as you now. Then you can pull the backup. If you don't do it then, you won't be able to do it later! </li>
<li>That's it! The old phone Whatsapp will get disabled, like with the other apps...</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="https://support.signal.org/hc/en-us/articles/360007059752-Backup-and-Restore-Messages#android_restore">Signal</a>:</li>
<ol>
<li>In the old phone, click the 3 dots >> chats and media >> Backups enable. Write down the bunch of numbers it gives you. Then click "Create backup". </li>
<li>Go now to the old phone internal storage and search for the backup file in signal/backups. Copy it to the same directory in the new phone.</li>
<li>Now install signal in the new phone (I had installed it and then erased it, which left the directory in there). Bottom line, when you install it, it'll see the backup and pull it itself. Will ask you for SMS and pin also (like whasapp). Straightforward...</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<div>
Cheers!</div>
cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-75103817468099805022020-04-05T23:19:00.011-05:002021-03-23T20:05:07.810-05:00Oil consumption and white smoke on my Golf GTI mkV[Work in progress: looks like it is the turbo (see all the way to bottom)]<br />
<br />
Here is <a href="https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/black-smoke-when-accelerating-high-oil-consumption.373032/">my post in the forum</a><br />
Based on their replies, pointed me to the PCV (positive crank case ventilation) system.<br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/h1qYiGYLqA8?t=75">How I checked it</a>. (all you need Torx 25, a.k.a. T25, screwdriver, very simple). <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69FbxmaKzCQ">Another video</a> with a bit more detail on how to test the valve once it is out. Note: When I see their hoses in the videos, they look really messed up with oil but mine were in that sense pretty clean.<br />
<br />
Also, I saw the under-car splash engine shield with lots of oil. I don't know if that was because of the bad installation the oil shop did of the oil filter (so, something dirty from the past) or is it something new. But if that was the problem, my mechanic should have seen it when I brought it in, so, I don't think it was. Or maybe they thought it came all from the filter and there was a different problem? But recall that the oil guys told me I was very low and they didn't report any leaks. They did report a lot of sludge on the oil, which is a symptom of the blow-by mixing with the oil if the PCV does not work...<br />
<br />
The valve costs $30-$55 in <a href="https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/pcv-valve?filterByKeyWord=pcv%20valve&isIgnoreVehicle=false&fromString=search">Autozone</a><br />
<br />
Now, if you want to know how the PCV works in the GTI MkV, Howardc64 does a great job explaining that in <a href="https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3769357-Rear-PCV-explained">this forum post</a>. I copy it here in case they take the other one down one day. You may not understand all what is written the first time you read it (I didn't), so, I put some Youtube videos below that may help you with engine concepts, but I have to say that he did a very good job at explaining this:<br />
"First, a quick explanation of blow by gasses and why all this vacuum stuff. When cylinder combustion occurs, some gasses will leak past the piston rings. This basically blows air into the crank case and need to be vented to prevent the pressure from pressing out of weak spots like oil seals. Crankcase has open air path to the head so common leak places are oil filler cap, cam seals and rear main seal depending on the different turbo engines. So how do we vent this pressure? On turbo cars, it needs 2 paths.<br />
<br />
Path 1 is intake manifold when there is vacuum (pistons draws in air creating the vacuum). This vacuum will suck out the blow by pressure into the intake manifold and crankcase/head pressure will become negative or neutral. But what happens when turbo is boosting and pressurizing the air into intake manifold? There is no more vacuum so what do we do?<br />
<br />
Path 2 is to vent this pressure to between the air filter and turbo. Usually just before the turbo. There isn't much vacuum here since air filter doesn't restrict much air to create high vacuum. But it is clearly a good place to dump excess blow by pressure.<br />
<br />
On 2.0TFSi, path 1 is what is commonly referred to as the front PCV and path 2 is commonly referred to as rear PCV.<br />
<br />
Path 1 has a check valve supposed to stop sending pressurized air into the head+crankcase whenever IM (intake manifold) is pressurized! The check valve suppose to close and relies on the path 2. This check valve in path 1 seems to have high failure rate. People use 2 solutions 1) add a stronger check valve (Digital Hippie Mod) or 2) choose to block off path 1 and just rely on path 2 (I think simpler and less failure) Lots of "PCV delete" kits out there for solution #2.<br />
<br />
Now onto path 2. This is NOT a vacuum source. It is mostly a venting source. When turbo pulls in the air, there is plenty of air supplied from the air filter path. No huge vacuum will be created, maybe the tiniest. But you can certainly vent blow by gasses in here without any issue. And when venting, crank case pressure will be slightly positive but not enough to push past any oil seals so its fine. This path has to vent whenever IM is pressurized. Any check valve in this path has to 1) open whenever there is positive pressure coming out the valve cover port for this path 2) probably closes whenever there is vacuum at this port. In any case, this pipe has to be able to blow air towards the turbo intake whenever the port is blowing pressurized air.<br />
<br />
In reality, I think path 2 sucking some air back into the crank case from front of the turbo is not an issue. You just want to equalize crank case pressure. If IM suction is so high that it draws air from front of the turbo, probably not a problem. Volvo turbos I worked on works this way. How much air flow all depends on pipe/hose/inlet sizes rather than check valves.<br />
<br />
Furthermore, the air flow rate of path 2 is important. The higher the flow rate, the more blow by gas it can vent and reduce crank case pressure. On Volvo turbo cars, people have up sized path 2 to handle higher crank case pressure as engine got older and rings allowed for more blow by.<br />
<br />
Anyhow, this is the only sense I can make of the check valve inside the rear PCV breather (path 2) and which way it opens and closes.<br />
<br />
And of course for those who don't want to dump oily crank case gas into the intake path, a catch can be installed.<br />
<br />
Here is a diagram that helps with understanding. All my comments are in green with green arrows"<br />
(Ignore the Eurojet stuff...)<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6c8C3Bjm-FQd5JMkCGvo3Y_iSJzGM5LOiSW7k0gSMJVR7fu8JFLhjtEXnqLRxhjX-DKokyCWHIpWoWV99LjEO3Zu90mxul8tVIrZjRP28WvGUJDfz7Rh0fyGv1Zj224QvWAeYTHeQXCE/s1600/32176252148_745ed2e693_o.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="390" data-original-width="820" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6c8C3Bjm-FQd5JMkCGvo3Y_iSJzGM5LOiSW7k0gSMJVR7fu8JFLhjtEXnqLRxhjX-DKokyCWHIpWoWV99LjEO3Zu90mxul8tVIrZjRP28WvGUJDfz7Rh0fyGv1Zj224QvWAeYTHeQXCE/s640/32176252148_745ed2e693_o.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The original diagram can be found in the FSI which I post <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11JaIhr-gYKeYBgK7MHLaJYNHDWEJ1Om9/view?usp=sharing">here</a> (pg 13).<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mnw5dUrZvRwHQt2foa5VTOI_9pHU-HUe8Q-ZtVzuz5BHqc3_vBnxnQyHp-XG6djThY7Zo_iK2sjOXIj57foNNHFrcFzvXNT5bb_bqEjmgccSs38WWIKrbr1XpbnIyLfcguICSObICLs/s1600/4640791367_deebf8d672_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9mnw5dUrZvRwHQt2foa5VTOI_9pHU-HUe8Q-ZtVzuz5BHqc3_vBnxnQyHp-XG6djThY7Zo_iK2sjOXIj57foNNHFrcFzvXNT5bb_bqEjmgccSs38WWIKrbr1XpbnIyLfcguICSObICLs/s640/4640791367_deebf8d672_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
For a diagram of the turbo, intake manifold, exhaust, etc you can check page 16 in this same <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11JaIhr-gYKeYBgK7MHLaJYNHDWEJ1Om9/view?usp=sharing">link</a>:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaR2C5yv6QVUR_tBYvrhz2bTX0osg7gqTl4uWIi2iCmAufN8U2unb3yuj-Vl3KffEjzElXRi7HHuJosASbuw_VP90LlQkhcfMNZmLJ1dulLPTWHRmCEMGM0DBBkYMGJ5FsyNQHrQHiI0M/s1600/4641399180_a705acc69f_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="888" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaR2C5yv6QVUR_tBYvrhz2bTX0osg7gqTl4uWIi2iCmAufN8U2unb3yuj-Vl3KffEjzElXRi7HHuJosASbuw_VP90LlQkhcfMNZmLJ1dulLPTWHRmCEMGM0DBBkYMGJ5FsyNQHrQHiI0M/s640/4641399180_a705acc69f_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/44727-crank-case-ventilation-fully-explained-turbocharged-edition.html">Here </a>you have a very nice explanation also about all this.<br />
<br />
A view of the turbo:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EpS8rwoe1PcUC8R06qPBYiLkId5aqIBYj3GRd8YXpecIaxjOwHsv-5vxFR-A5CIpFSHKdd8FSXReWRCC_ajQhZqhowvVitbAwBPMj75nstYxjt8Vcj-PkOEdYu0Jn6NVRsdPZwxq6mo/s1600/turbo.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="429" data-original-width="640" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EpS8rwoe1PcUC8R06qPBYiLkId5aqIBYj3GRd8YXpecIaxjOwHsv-5vxFR-A5CIpFSHKdd8FSXReWRCC_ajQhZqhowvVitbAwBPMj75nstYxjt8Vcj-PkOEdYu0Jn6NVRsdPZwxq6mo/s640/turbo.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
You can see the pipe on the top right the "crankcase breather". On my same forum post you can see:<br />
"There are two different PCV's and two different rear breather tubes and they need to be paired together properly. [See pics in the post]; pcv w/check valve goes with rear tube w/no check valve...and then the next pair(newer revision and recommended) - [AND MINE]; <b>pcv w/no check valve (06F 129 101 P) goes with rear tube w/check valve (06F 103 215 B)</b>. It is possible the diaphragm, inside the large disc portion, of the pcv isn't sealing and routing properly under vacuum...allowing vapor to enter the turbo inlet rather than routing it to the intake manifold directly. It could be a combination of issues as well. The forementioned rocker cover come apart inside is one. How you choose to proceed is up to you. Because you have a bunch of oil coming out of the turbo outlet...first; you need a new seal (3C0 145 117 B) there on the upper turbo outlet hose. Remove the PCV again and determine if you have the older or newer pcv. <b>Replace just the pcv if it is the newer</b> (hopefully it was replaced correctly if replaced previously) and both pcv and rear tube if the older. That's where I would begin"<br />
<br />
In case you have to work on the check valve of the back (rear PCV), <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xqil9bKnKW0">here is a video.</a><br />
<br />
Another guy advised to check inside the upstream intercooler hose (from turbo to IC) to see if the oil was inside. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCe2UeiPQs0">The IC sits between the engine radiator (on its back, towards the engine) and the AC radiator (in front of it)</a>. To get to that hose you got to remove the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTEvojmVnlk">front passenger wheel</a>.<br />
<br />
"Nice to have" Youtube videos:<br />
<ol>
<li>By the way, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zA_19bHxEYg">best video</a> I've seen on basics on how an engine works</li>
<li>Not for GTI, but <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPIfI9aZHt4">watch this to understands the basics of PCV</a>. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVhZJ2nb8-0">Very nice video</a> with much more details and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pr5MZni4_Bc">this other one</a>.</li>
<li>Good guy explaining <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfaD4nrut90">PCV for FSI</a></li>
<li>Great mechanic, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQEciqR1ST8">great video</a>, unfortunately for the TSI but you can still learn things from it.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/S8Zz3ergmJ8">How to replace it</a></li>
<li>This is NOT what happened to me, but you can see different effects of a bad PCV valve <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PZiqvpjq4">here</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7J2psIpTDNE">here </a>(similar) and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uXfqRk6kok">here</a>.</li>
</ol>
<div>
There you go, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzLoEkpdaGs">on the smoke</a>, the sludge that the oil replacement guy told me...<br />
<br />
For the latest, check <a href="https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/black-smoke-when-accelerating-high-oil-consumption.373032/">my post in the forum</a>. I'll update here when it is solved.<br />
The following is a link along my latest suspect:<br />
<a href="https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,117203.0.html">https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,117203.0.html</a></div>
<br />
<div>
Found <a href="http://www.vwproblems.com/oil-consumption/">this article</a> where it says that VW considers ok to consume 1 quart every 1k miles.<br />
I can't believe I missed so many links talking about my car brand consuming so much oil. Anyhow, <a href="https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=116590.0">here </a>is a good one with some recommendations to follow on things to check and oil to use.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>*** CHECKING THE TURBO ***</div><div><br /></div><div>So, I have a new theory. A <a href="https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/support/faq/turbo.html#:~:text=White%20smoke%20(Oil%20leakage),the%20muffler%20will%20come%20out.&text=The%20center%20housing%20of%20the,from%20the%20oil%20to%20leak." target="_blank">turbo leak</a>. Oil refrigerating the turbo leaks into the exhaust. One can read few cases out there. Also could be the coolant (which then gives a white smoke). Actually I had just refilled both oil and coolant and both are low after my engine put out a lot of smoke the other day.</div><div><br /></div><div>So, got a log of my boost: https://log.tunezilla.com/s/x3rWzzSt</div><div>I am not sure I am reading these properly as spec and actual don't match. Shape does, though.</div><div>I think I may have to take this into the dealer...</div><div><br /></div><div>** UPDATE **</div><div><br /></div><div>Dealer confirmed is the turbo ~~><~~</div><div><a href="https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/63-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Turbo/63-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Turbo.htm">How to replace it</a></div><div>Repair at the dealer $3k. Turbo (06F145701H) from <a href="https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-exhaust-manifold-06f145701h?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT12b2xrc3dhZ2VuJm89Z3RpJnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT0yLTBsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D">dealer </a>alone is $1.7k. Looks like you can buy a rebuilt one for $350 or so, but also found these cheaper new alternatives: <a href="https://www.ecstuning.com/b-borgwarner-parts/k03-turbocharger/06f145701h~oes/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkoz7BRBPEiwAeKw3qwAxd4kbJehdatMZNEz2K9q9t_Uul7-Dzi_g8wTkIqMzCHG-uHfccxoCX-kQAvD_BwE">BorgWarner </a>for $970 and <a href="https://www.stigan.com/stigan_turbocharger_847-1437.html">STIGAN </a>(<a href="https://www.turbochargerpros.com/buynow/2007/Volkswagen/GTI/Turbocharger/40-30176_SG?src=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtZH7BRDzARIsAGjbK2a1WR8ge0xY9s6D9_QZMtdTnZdciwHVWGe3xUocfSFFmZj_n6R2iOkaAv0jEALw_wcB">$650 after discount</a>)</div>
<div>
<br /></div><div>Checked with my usual mechanic and here is his estimate:</div><div>Turbo (06F145701H): $600 for manpower + turbo cost. If I buy the Stigan (which runs now for $580) they don't guarantee the job. If they buy it for me, they'll add $200 commission but they'll guarantee the job.</div><div>Front-right axel: $320. It made a bit of noise but seems ok so far...</div><div>Fan assembly: $500 (according to the dealer, one of my two fans has stopped working). If the other goes, I am toast.Quick search, though, shows that I can do this myself</div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-difficult-to-replace-small-radiator-fan.184992/">Forum thread</a></li><li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_-SPGk2jx4">Nice video</a></li><li>I would try the video first, but if that doesn't work, then <a href="https://www.europaparts.com/radiator-fan-1k0959455et.html" target="_blank">fans are not that expensive</a>.</li></ol></div><div>For a second I had a doubt between these two:</div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.turbochargerpros.com/buynow/2007/Volkswagen/GTI/Turbocharger/40-30176_SG">The first one</a> clearly says is compatible with the <a href="https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-exhaust-manifold-06f145701h?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT12b2xrc3dhZ2VuJm89Z3RpJnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT0yLTBsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D" target="_blank">06F-145-701-H</a>. Costs $588.</li><li><a href="https://www.turbochargerpros.com/buynow/2007/Volkswagen/GTI/Turbocharger_and_Installation_Accessory_Kit/40-80313_S0?crid=2842383" target="_blank">The second one</a> is also recommended for my car by the site, but it does not list the same PN for the turbo. It does say it is a replacement for the BPY engine which is mine (found <a href="http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/FSIvTSI.pdf" target="_blank">this nice article</a> explaining it). It is $550 and comes with the kit.</li></ol><div>I was doubting till I notice that the second uses the same turbocharger part number: 40-30176 SG. I think I'll give it a try.</div></div><div><br /></div>
cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-5358962062713088462020-02-03T23:40:00.004-06:002020-11-13T14:01:43.854-06:00Coronavirus masksA friend in China is asking me to send her some masks... Found these good links straight from the CDC on which ones are effective on what:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npptl/topics/respirators/disp_part/respsource3healthcare.html#e">CDC</a> - differences between these: </li>
<ol>
<li>Surgical masks: basically protect the patient from the wearer's infections. I.e., if population wear these, they may protect a bit themselves, but they protect mostly the people they interact with.</li>
<li>N95 respirator: filters small particles. May be effective against virus/bacteria (more than #1) but has to be worn properly and it is tough. This is usually for industrial use but can be used by medical personal in these days (in fact that's what US gov. is buying by the millions).</li>
<li>Surgical N95 respirator: N95 respirator + protection against liquid splashes (blood from surgery, etc.) and flammability. You don't really need this for Covid-19.</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="https://www.cdc.gov/h1n1flu/guidelines_infection_control.htm">CDC on Influenza and protections against it</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npptl/topics/respirators/disp_part/">CDC - List of respirators</a></li>
</ul><div>Update (11/13/2020): was wondering about the <a href="https://www.terrycralle.com/pm-2-5-filter-masks/">PM2.5 masks</a>. Probably don't help much with Covid (they filter 2.5um particles or above).</div><div><br /></div>
cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-52610842649966473512020-01-11T18:26:00.002-06:002020-01-11T18:26:38.350-06:00Electricity costs in Spain vs USAJust quick check, in Dec. 2020...<br />
<br />
In US, for 166 KWh (funny thing is that I wasn't there for 1/2 the month and I disconnected my water heater) I paid:<br />
<ol>
<li>$23.57 (basically 14.1c/kWh)</li>
<li>$10 of minimum usage charge (WTF, why they charge that if I already past the minimum usage?!?)</li>
<li>$6.39 usage charge from electricity distribution company (Oncor)</li>
<li>$3.42 monthly charge.</li>
<li>Tax $1.38 (2.1% + 10% sales tax)</li>
</ol>
<div>
So, although they claim 14.1c/kWh, it is actually more like a fix of $13.5 + 18c/kWh. All in all 27c/kWh. (2x... no comment >.> ). </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In Spain, for 2 months (bills are for two months):</div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>7E (basically 12.5E/kWh) for 56kWh, i.e, 13.9c/kWh</li>
<li>24.51E (for two months): $13.6/month</li>
<li>+5% electricity tax</li>
<li>+21% sales tax</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
Total was $46 (41.49E) for 56kWh, or 82c/kWh! Nevertheless, this comparison is not fair as my variable was very small so this cost is mostly monthly fix/installation charge. If we just look purely at the variable, in US we had 18c + 12% tax, about 20c/kWh. In Spain we had 13.9c + 26% tax = 17.5c/kWh, so, actually a bit cheaper, even with the higher taxes. But maybe I am paying too much also in US (as I have not negotiated rates for very long). So, all in all, about the same cost, I would say.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Considering that oil is much more expensive in Europe than US, it makes sense to transition to as much electric as possible in Europe.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-81075603798295719872020-01-06T08:32:00.001-06:002020-03-07T12:03:52.849-06:00Hiring in Spain vs US<a href="https://cell0907.blogspot.com/2019/12/taxes-in-us-vs-spain.html">As explained</a>, I have never created a company so I am trying to get a sense for how competitive different countries are if I wanted to set a company there. I guess there are different type of incentives; one can get in addition to these, but let's just go by the standards. I can think of factors when taking that choice like taxes (to your employees, which is likely to limit who you can hire) and of course, to your company (corporate taxes), salaries, costs of running the company (like energy costs if a given industry really needs those), raw materials, leasing, transport...<br />
<br />
We look here purely at hiring costs. Looking at <a href="https://www.infoautonomos.com/blog/cuanto-cuesta-contratar-un-trabajador/">this article</a>, we basically have that in Spain:
<br />
<ol>
<li>There are 14 or even 15 pays per year, so, easiest is to compute things on annual income.</li>
<li>From the salary company pays to the employee, the company pays about 30% on social security related expenses and the employee an extra 6% give it or take. So, for a say, $10k salary, company would pay an extra $3k and employee $600 on social security.</li>
</ol>
So, say that about 26% of what the company pays goes into medical, retirement, disability, unemployment and paternity benefits.
<br />
<br />
In US for the equivalent items we find (<a href="https://web.mit.edu/e-club/hadzima/how-much-does-an-employee-cost.html">How much does an employee costs</a>):
<br />
<ol>
<li>Social Security/FICA (<a href="http://www.ssa.gov/">currently 6.2% on the first $90,000 of salary</a>)</li>
<li>Unemployment/FUTA (<a href="http://workforcesecurity.doleta.gov/unemploy/uitaxtopic.asp">6.2% on $7,000 of salary</a>)</li>
<li>Medicare (<a href="http://www.ssa.gov/">1.45% with no salary cap</a>).</li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Workers%27_compensation">Workmen’s compensation premiums</a>;will depend on the category of your employee, with clerical at about 0.3% of salary and manufacturing at 7.5%.</li>
<li>So, we are looking at 15% (without #4) for someone like an office worker, an engineer... The benefits one may get from this social security may not be as high as full salary coverage that happens many times in Spain, so, companies may throw in 401k contributions which could be like 6% of your salary.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.ehealthinsurance.com/resources/small-business/average-cost-of-employer-sponsored-health-insurance">Health care costs</a> are apart, depend on plan... but we can say that for an individual is about $6k/year and family about 2x that. It is not a percentage of the salary so, for a $10k salary that would be a lot while for a $100k is about 6%-12%.</li>
<li>Short and long term disability insurance would also be apart but <a href="https://gusto.com/blog/benefits/difference-between-short-long-term-disability">an estimate</a> is about 1% of the salary. Things start to get even with Spain specially on the lower salary brackets.</li>
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So, "the costs to this point (basic salary, employment taxes and benefits) are typically in the 1.25 to 1.4 times base salary range- e.g. the cost range for a $50,000/year employee might $62,500 to $70,000."<br />
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In summary, it looks to me that while the compensation costs beyond salary are equivalent or even higher in the US, the employee in Spain (or Europe in general) gets much better benefits. One could obtain similar conclusion from<a href="https://www.fastcompany.com/3056830/how-the-us-employee-benefits-compare-to-europe">comparing benefits from US and Europe</a> article.<br />
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One big difference are the firing costs too, as things may not go out as expected initially). In other words, while it is cheaper (for the same benefits) to hire someone in Spain, not even taking into account the salary itself, letting him go could be much worst.<br />
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Please comment if I am missing something :)<br />
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Cheers!cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5033209062055976547.post-83131368727174128612019-12-31T06:18:00.000-06:002020-01-06T08:35:58.180-06:00Taxes in US vs Spain<div>
[Work in progress]</div>
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Top level, I want to compare couple of countries (US vs Spain) which could be considered quite different from social policies, one often cited as extreme capitalism and the other more of socialist nature (who likes to talk about "el estado del bienestar"). I am not an economist or have experience creating a company so I may miss stuff, but let me give it a try. We would like to learn:<br />
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<li>If you make a given salary, how much you get to keep, depending on the place.</li>
<li>And related, what do you get for what you pay on your taxes. Or a bit on the flip side. If you have certain needs in life you have to pay for and the rest of the money you get to keep to enjoy, where is better (assuming you were making the same, which obviously may not be the case).</li>
<li>If you are a company, where is cheaper to hire someone. This is more from the perspective of where would you like to invest. Of course, there are other factors, like how easy is to pull out if things go bad (like the cost of laying off people, etc) or what are the corporate taxes...</li>
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So, with we dig in both countries and try to make a comparison, which obviously may not be easy. This will be even more difficult if we try to cover a broad spectrum (low and high income, etc). So, we may just want to pick an example. </div>
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I'll put here the summary table once I get it all. For the time being few posts getting the background info:</div>
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<li><a href="https://cell0907.blogspot.com/2020/01/hiring-in-spain-vs-us.html">How much is to hire someone in Spain?</a></li>
<li>Income tax brackets in Spain</li>
<li>Income tax brackets in US</li>
<li><a href="http://cell0907.blogspot.com/2019/12/paying-taxes-in-spain.html">Paying taxes in Spain (II)</a>: taxes on your wealth.</li>
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Cheers!</div>
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cell0907http://www.blogger.com/profile/06432011765268092498noreply@blogger.com0