Nevertheless, this guy recommends trying to dislodge the carbon deposits with BG Dynamic Engine Restoration.
Maybe a better option! Berrymans B-12 Chemtool Used by this guy
Setting engine top dead center but do I really need this?
Found these guys in McKinney TX that will do it
I paste here the raw stuff I've been typing up. Sorry not very cleaned up but in case it can help someone...
VW told me that I had to change the motor!
Other people says it is piston rings getting stuck because of carbon.
This guy presents an old method to de-stuck them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG70jHiT-S0
Shopping list:
- Latex gloves
- Compresion tester (Innova Compression Tester 4 Piece)($33)
- Shringe
- Tube
- Berrymans B-12 Chemtool Carburator Cleaner
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-engine-cleaners-additives/carburetor-and-throttle-body-cleaner/p/berryman-b-12-chemtool-fuel-treatment-15oz/525253_0_0
- Fanel
- Paper towels
- Stick to measure where the pistons are at. I ended up using two chopsticks taped back to back
- Scope Camera + cell phone
- Spark plug wrench: Duralast 3/8in Drive 5/8in Magnetic Spark Plug Socket with 10in Swivel Bar
- Crank screw key ($7): Duralast 1/2in Drive 19mm 12 Point Socket
- Spark plug x 4:
Autolite XP Iridium Spark Plug XP3923
Process:
Compression test:
Note: theoretically you do this with the engine hot but I just did it cold.
1. Hear to the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition key on.
2. Locate and remove the fuel pump fuse. In my case it is the 27 (15A). That'll avoid getting fuel injected when you are running the starter engine during the work (for instance to check compresion)
3. Do same as 1. but now you shouldn't hear the pump - honestly not sure I did any time.
4. Remove the ignition coils and the spark plugs. BTW, one can see, specially on #3 that both are quite soaked on oil.
5. At this moment, I would run the starter to purge a bit of the gas in the line (I didn't and somehow when I check the first compression test the car stalled).
6. Plug the hose of the tester in the spark socket without tightening it too hard, just by hand.
7. Turn on the starter pressing on the clutch (neutral) and the gas. Run about 5 times. Same for all cylinders.
8. I got about 190 for all 4 cylinders.
Well, actually the first one (cylinder 4 actually) I believe had fuel going in and stalled, as mentioned...
But the other 3 did the 190 and looks like on the same steps, first to about 120, then 150, then 180, and rounded up in two kicks more to the 190
Somehow it looks too good specially considering it is cold...
9. I did try to do a wet test and added a spoon of oil to #3 but then the compression was actually worse and barely made it to 180?!
Procedure:
10. Took some pics with the scope:
First day 4-3-2-1
Second day 4-1 then cranked 180 degrees and did 3-2
11. The procedure is basically to add Berrymans in the cylinders, through the spark plugs, turn the crank 5 times, and let it sit there for 6 hours. Then repeat another 3 times.
Every can has 440ml
First time I put about 70ml on every cylinder. About 10:55AM on Tuesday
Second time (about 5PM on Tuesday) I put a bit on each cylinder. Closed #1 with the spark plug but it seemed also dry when I looked back after 6 hrs
The third time at 1AM added quite a bit (unfortunately I didn't record the amount).
Last time 7AM, the first one had still some liquid. I sprayed about 30ml on every cylinder with the syringe and closed everyone with the spark plug.
Overall I run through one can and a half, almost 2.
To rotate the crank shaft, you use a 20mil double hex socket on the crankshaft pulley
Rotate CW (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFZ-JX5yFWw minute 10:17)
Nevertheless, for me to turn the crank was much harder than in the video. I had to take the wheel out, the wheel guard and use a longer pray bar to have more leverage.
BTW, as I spin, there is a moment that it is really tough and then becomes easier. Basically when all cylinders are dead center it is tough, then becomes easier and then at 180 degrees becomes tough again, and then easier again at 270, to finish tough... Could that be a clue?
How to turn the crankshaft to set it at TDC (top dead center):
Nevertheless, I am not sure I understand the logic of the engine being dead center when adding the liquid. Anyhow you are going to move them up and down 5 times... Maybe to let it sit dead center, but even that, why?
I put new plugs, close everything up, and tried to turn on the engine, which miserably failed for 2 times giving me all kind of codes. But finally it started up! Put out a lot of smoke on start and while driving.
Then you gotta go 60mph, 3rd gear, 20min. But I think the point is to go at 4500rpm for 20 min. So, you can drive faster but on 4th gear, for instance...
My smoke lasted for a while but then went away...
Then go change the oil. In my case used 5W-40.
Engine description (a newer one but hopefully the same):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJbKNIJqAEA second=2:03
1-2-3-4 counting from left to right looking at the car from the driver's seat
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Stroke 92.8mm
Displacement: 1.984l
One can see the animation of the 1-3-4-2 at minute 0:54 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY_FgdgYxYI
Intake-Compresion-explosion-exhaust
Other folks talking about this potentially being a reason:
Different products:
Seafoam
Marvel Mystery Oil
Valvoline
Berrymans ChemDip : This does it the carbon very nicely but CAN'T be used in the engine directly. They use it to clean the pieces out of the engine.
