Replacing ipod adapter from GTI MKV with AUX in

You are here, so, I'll skip the why :)
The problem is well described here: "Basically the factory iPod adaptor replicates a external 6 disc CD changer to the headunit in the dash. This is why the iPod dock is limited to 6 playlists. In the bottom of that tray the dock is in there is a 12 pin connector that plugs in to a printed circuit board and the dock plugs in to it."

You can't just bypass plug to that connector on the audio pins of the ipod connector.

The CableJive solution looked promising. On one side it plugs to the ipod connector (tricking the controller to think that it is an ipod) and on the other had the aux. But in the page says it does not work well with VW: "Does not work with: ALL factory installed car audio systems 2008 and newer. Any and all factory systems (pre & post 2008) from Volkswagen, Audi, Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, Lexus, & Mazda "

A basic ipod to aux adapter like this one doesn't seem to work either, based on what they say on the description :(

Found also this one from Avery but it seems to work for VW MDI. I.e., watch because it is not the same and in the list actually there is no VW listed!

The enfig looks like the easiest way There is actually a whole list of products and that is the question, what to buy. It looks like they were using the VWT-AUX ($70). Somehow they recommend the VW1-AUX ($60) but I think the internal connector won't work (see this video). More videos here. BUT now they are recommending the GW1LVWT. I think the difference is that it has the stupid iPod cable WHICH I DON'T WANT. I think all the boxes for the wired version are basically the same and the difference is on the cables. So, for instance, the other version with the VWT-IPDU-AUX includes the USB (and also the aux cable).

The only thing with this approach is that we need to find a way to get the cable out so that we can plug it... But maybe instead of doing it through the top (drilling a whole in a new box) we can do it through the bottom (see how they install the cable from the front switches by the stick to the back).

The other possibility would be to get the BT one. There are two versions for that (one with a full BT box supporting calls...) and the other VWT-BTA-AUX which basically is like the above but has a BT interface cable (and still supports the aux). That is $20 more: $89.99. The AUX cable actually is probably not far from that so I think I'm just going to pay for this... Kind of pricey to remove some thing that I hate from the first day :(.

BTW, it seems that actually this is the manufacturer but their direct price is too high!

Understanding OBD

Under construction

Originally I had planned to talk about OBD Eleven here, but for the time being I am just going to describe OBD interface and how it works...

OBD Protocol:
This page by Klav Karr is very complete. Check all the info, not only that page, like the hardware level info and the standard fault codes.
Link
Wikipedia OBD
Wikipedia PIDs (OBD Parameter IDs)

This guy explains what adaptation, long coding, etc... is. Then posts a lot of the info corresponding to all those codes. Notice that OBD calls

Somehow there is this term out there about "measuring blocks". Not sure if it is universal or a function name on the VCDS software (from Ross-Tech). Regardless, what matters is that all the info you can pull from the car through OBD is divided in groups of 4 registers. Somehow in OBDEleven they talk about "channels" instead of groups. Regardless, each group or channels has 4 values (each for one thing, and not always all are used). Ross-Tech info on standard measuring block group. An example of key groups for my fuel cuts debugging (can see more of the word usage here) is listed below. I highlight in red the ones that I am finally plotting for debugging:

1. Group 1:
1. RPM
2. Group 2:
1. RPM (yes, again, just to illustrate that there can be repeated values)
2. Load (%). I believe this refers to the car engine load (?)
3. Group 3:
1. N/A
2. N/A
3. Throttle (%)
4. Group 103: (notice how the previous link actually has different stuff in here, as I think there are no standards...)
1. Fuel pressure (Low). Low means low pressure, not low limit or something like that. It is basically the one produced by the in-tank pump (lpfp).
5. Group 106:
1. Fuel pressure (High). High here refers to the high pressure and this value should be the same as the group 230 #2.
2. Load (%). The word load applies to different engines... In this case it is referring to the LPFP and it has nothing to do with the group 2 #2. As these pumps are usually PWM pumps, it also refers to the duty cycle of the control signal.
6. Group 230:
1. Fuel Rail Pressure: Commanded Fuel Pressure (aka specified). Fuel rail refers to the high pressure circuit, the one hitting the cylinders. Commanded because is what the ECM wants to get but controlling the hpfp.
2. Fuel Rail Pressure: Actual Fuel Pressure.
3. Fuel Rail Pressure: Fuel Pressure Difference (between 1 and 2). You can just compute this but I guess they provide it in case you want to plot that for debugging, real time...
7. Group 231
1. Fuel Pressure: Commanded Fuel Pressure (aka specified). Usually, if nothing is said, fuel pressure refers to the low one. Sometimes they say "Low" (as used above). This number should be same as group 103, #1.
2. Fuel Pressure: Actual Fuel Pressure.
3. Load (%) refers here to the load of the in-tank fuel pump (lpfp). Same as group 106 #2...

Good news is that you can't break anything by looking at this. Looks like OBD computer gives not only the register but also what the units are. So, the software can try to interpret the Byte (?) it gets. Need to learn more about the OBD memory. It also looks like these may not be standard across vehicles. Probably some are but many are not.

In OBDEleven, you access it by going to the right control unit and clicking in Live data. Once there you can also plot it (click the little graph icon on top). It is annoying because I don't think you can save the graph settings so every capture you have to retype it. Got to understand this better...

Can you really buy an OBD reader for $2?!?
The car hacker handbook

OBD for VW GTI MKV

This post is under construction. Probably don't want to spend much time on it...

Trying to find what to buy to monitor my HPFP or errors (see other posts on this), although now the car runs nice (after the spark plugs job. Update: it doesn't, see debugging here...). Here is what I learnt:

1. VCDS® HEX-V2® Enthusiast: The VW tool by excellence. $200. Uses USB.
2. BlueDriver seems to be well recommended, but not sure it allows me to program the car. It works with many cars. Free app but can't be accessed from other apps.
3. OBDEleven: lots of people says this is good. Get the PRO for about $80 that allows to program the car... Seems to work only on VW family cars... (Audi, Skoda...). Nice app, you can do everything you want yourself at low level but if you want click-only easy type of mods got to pay. I bought this one as it felt like a good trade-off. Almost regretting not to spent the $200 on the #1 but it's doing ok. My review/explanations here. 
4. Open source: but still hardware is expensive because uses some expensive MCU board... Still, the info on that site can teach us how to do ourselves one, if one day we want to.

I may update this back based on my learnings... Just putting it out there.

GTI VW MKV P0087 P2293

Very quick entry in case someone struggling with those codes...

1. As you already found on the web, this could be a cam follower going bad. In the MKV people says that this can happen quite often and then the whole camshaft has to be replaced (because the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) eats away the cam. That's a $1k job in the dealer + all the other stuff to remove the metal debris from the car. Not nice. So, if you get this code or EPC light and the code is not going away go straight to the dealer. Usually this issue also trigger limp mode (reduce engine power) for safety.
2. Nevertheless, in my case code came and disappeared after turning on/off the car. Still I went to dealer and the cam follower was ok. Actually they even didn't know what I was talking about when I told them that I read it was an issue with the car. They even didn't have one in stock! Anyhow, they told me there was an error code with the HPFP solenoid (2294) BUT I actually didn't do the job (they said it would cost $550 + $180). They still wanted to charge me the $180 even when they already had the pump out! Instead of putting the old pump in I ask them to put the new one in but they didn't want to do that for the same price as changing the follower >.>
3. Anyhow, I was planning to do it myself as it looks quite easy (google it...). Nevertheless, I first replaced my spark plugs (I had got a code back 6 months ago that never came back). And boom, car seemed to work beautiful... Probably because that needed fixing too. But...
4. Update: few days later I lost power several times in high revs. No engine lights up, though. I am going to get the OBD reader to see if I got any codes...
5. My dad said that it could be the fuel filter (actually car 110k miles and I don't think I ever changed it). Maybe in some routine maintenance long ago, but don't recall. The piece is WK69 6.6bar (although for some mistake I ended up using a 6.4). This guy explains what the 3 pipes do on the filter and what is the regulator. So, found this about how to change it:  
1. Youtube - It is for an MK6 but really well explained.
2. Forum write up - I think the best for those hoses is to remove the two rear clips, then remove the filter from the holder. That allows for better finger access to the other clip. And let the car sit overnight and do not open the doors in the morning (as that primes the pump and increases the pressure). Use eye protection! Also I would put a piece of cloth around the connection so that muffles any squirting.
3. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5537643-Fuel-filter-change-on-07-MK5
6. One guy says to put the ignition key on the AC position (power on without turning on the engine?) few times for 30s to purge the fuel line. 
7. Called a different dealer and they charge me $495 for the pump! Wonder how come they have different prices but anyhow, the Hitachi one on Deutsche Autoparts is $235!
8. This has a nice explanation of the P2293 and P2294 codes. Only thing is that it seems to say that with voltage, the regulator opens increasing the pressure but a video below says the opposite. Maybe this is talking about the LPFP and the video certainly is talking about the HPFP.
9. The 2293 is the code that I see all the time. The 2294 is the one that the dealer saw. Not sure I still have it now. So, I still don't want to buy the hpfp till sure. Notice how, for the 2293, they say that a clogged filter could be the reason. People also points to the LPFP or its control module. For the 2294, they said to check the wiring going to the fuel pressure regulator as some times animals chew on it! AMAZING. I saw an empty shell of a nut cracked open inside. This could totally be the reason. Another clue may be that temperature doesn't seem to make a difference (?). All days were actually very cold but things didn't look worse with warmer weather.
10. Nevertheless, found this ross-tech link of all the codes and it clearly says "Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276): Mechanical Malfunction". As possible solutions does mention fuel filter, for instance:
1. Check Measuring Values for Fuel Pressure
2. Check for bent/squeezed Fuel Lines
3. Check Fuel Pressure System for Leaks
4. Check Fuel Filter & Filter in Fuel Pump
5. Check Fuel Quantity supplied by the Fuel Pump
6. Check Pressure Limiting Valve installed on the high pressure fuel rail when applicable
11. How about the P0087? 
12. N276 valve is the solenoid (fuel pressure regulator). In this link says that ohming it out should show 25 to 30 Ohms. See THIS FULL REPAIR MANUAL for more details. It tells you also how to follow the control wire back to the ECU.
13. The hpfp can get to 120 bar (normal is between 30 and 110) while low pressure is about 6 bar. Here says that low pressure rail should be 0.5 to 5bar. I wonder if this is reported somewhere in the OBD. 100 psi is about 6.9 bar.
14. Fuel trim explanation in detail, another level up.
15. Return vs Return-less fuel systems. Mine is probably return-less because of emissions.
16. How hpfp system works and how the pump itself works. Notice here that when no voltage is given to the regulator the pressure actually drops (i.e., solenoid must be closed not letting fuel into the HPFP). This is the opposite of what the video says.
17. Found in the manual how to check the fuel delivery system
18. Coding. Checking fuel pressure codes here.
19. Found a kick-ass document describing the whole fuel system: Service Training, Self-study programme 334, The fuel system in FSI engines. 
20. Update: changed the fuel filter. Car sounds better. Codes still there but they are from yesterday when I was messing with the hpfp and the intake flow sensor was disconnected. Reset them. Now measuring pump pressure with OBD2. Codes came back. Got a new one too: P310B. This actually now seems to point to the LPFP! I guess changing the filter did something? As it can be seen in the video, the duty cycle should be lower but I am getting very high although the pressure is good
21. With OBDEleven one can click on gages to see a value, but if what you want to see it's not there, you can go to the control unit. I created a separate post on OBDEleven.

Will post back after I do this change and see if my car goes back to normal...
Fuel system of the FSI engine.


Check your lpfp like this
P310B

1. This guy says that "Generally lpfp issues you have stalling, while hpfp you can still limp it around". That would mean is my HPFP

They say you should hear it click
Can the HP change so fast? I guess so. The other thought would be the sensor, but why the cuts would happen related to the acceleration. A sensor fail should be uncorrelated with that.
It is pretty clear that the load on the LPFP goes to 100% only on reaction to drops on HP, but not so clear on how to get it out of there. Why gets stack

Drive next day after fix
Drive to dinner Everything looks nicely in place. LPFP between 30 and 40%. Most of the drive on secondary streets.
Drive to run. First and last part on secondary streets. Middle in highway.


My forum post

The post on the MKV forum

Nice doc on GTI FSI engine
P310B causes
Another good video of how GDI (gasoline direct injection) works
Sponsors that helped create some of the videos I watched:

• FCP Euro: cool diagram of the pump
• Deutsche auto parts

Humble Mechanic

Nice place to check vw car diagrams

Fixing the Chuango Alarm

For some reason the remote and sensors got unpaired and the alarm didn’t react to them. The RFID tags work (although I don’t think they do anything either but at least are detected).

Things that didn't work

a/ Trying to pair them by the standard method (press disarm code >> tape key >> sensor or remote) didn’t work.

b/ They say to press the tamper switch (on the back of the control box) 3 times in 3 seconds (SMS texting 21 looks like it does the same). When you do that it erases the disarm code back to factory (1234) and the RFID tags. Note: when you do that, at the end of the 3^rd press you got to keep pressing the tamper switch or else will trigger the alarm. If that happens, even the disarm code will not stop it?!? Fortunately the SMS still works.

Things that worked

The above didn’t do it and still didn’t detect the remote or the sensor. I don't think it needs to be done to do the stuff on bottom (c), so, I would try first the following but if it doesn't work, try the above first (b) and then the following (c) below.

c/ Basically you need to use the switch on/off (the switch is on the other cover, where the battery and power adapter plug are). If you switch it off nothing happens (no beep). Switch it back on and then the reprogramming method above (a) works! I.e., press disarm code (1234)* >> tape key >> sensor or remote, you’ll get one beep. Second time you do this you’ll hear two because it was already paired.

Now everything is back to life.

Note: when the alarm is disarmed, you can unplug it and move it…

* If you didn't do (b) not sure what is the disarm code (1234) or whatever you got already programmed in. Maybe try the other if one doesn't work...

Radiadores no calientan

Basicamente, despues de purgar los radiadores, habia dos que todavia no iban (ni si quiera su tuberia de acceso estaban calientes).
My brand Baxi. Also this link
Parecia que la valvula de entrada no iba... Y encontre este video. Basicamente, hay un pivote dentro de la valvula para regular el agua. Parece que el knob empuja para cerrarla pero no tira del pivote para abrirla. Este debe salir con algun muelle? Pero bueno, se queda encasquillado y por mucho que gires el knob el pivote no sale. Asi que hay que tirar de el. Lo unico que quedaba era saber como abrir el knob de nuestro radiador, cosa que se puede encontrar en 0:10 de este video.
Hoy lo probe con los dos radiadores y voila!

Cheers!

HTC U8 360 camera

HTC had what I consider to be the best panoramic app of all in the One M8 phones. It doesn't work like the stupid sweeping but instead you simply snap shots where it gives you the options to do it (indicating it with squares in the image adjacent to the one you just snapped) and real time builds the 360. It was also ahead of its time presenting this back to you linked to the motion of the phone. Now many do the 2nd but still all the apps use for panoramic the stupid panning. That unfortunately also applies to the new HTCs :(

So, I am looking about similar app or instead, port that app to my new phone:

• I tried simply downloading from Google Play and installing it. Now I can't even find it, but when I did, it gave me an error and didn't open.
• Get the HTC One M8 Camera App on Your Nexus (Or Any Device with Stock Android). More in detail here.
• Google Photosphere mode on their camera app looked similar. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be there in my phone. Checking the app store link shows a message saying "This apps is incompatible with all of your devices"
• With that in mind I found several releases out there, although not sure they are clean of malware...:
• The one I used
• https://androidfilehost.com/?fid=889764386195922284
• https://www.pipipan.com/dir/15204535-24613031-01ad80/

Certainly used that and worked great! Not a perfect clean way to do it but I am taking the risk...

Cheers!